A nice left-traversing, steep to slightly overhanging route on good jugs. Position belayer midway between first and last bolts on pretty steep slope.  Climber starts over by the dihedral and climbs 5-6 feet up to a large shelf, where the first bolt can be clipped standing.  From there the traverse left begins, over and up. crux is the last few feet between the last bolt and the anchors. After clipping the twin bolts on the lip, lower or walk off. Great for beginning lead!

Diagon Alley

Touch The Tip

Last Train to Chossville

Gary's Bulge

30 Seconds of Fun

Grab the Guano

A fun route that starts with some liebacking on crumbly, less-than-stellar rock, then to an awkward mantle crux move over a mini-roof.  Rock quality improves from here, and it's jug pulling over a second mini-roof that leads up to a hand jam and a kind of tricky finish.

Jugs off the ground lead to the over-sized, flexy, phallic, flake (between bolts 1 and 2).  Not sure if it's solid, but it's sure fun to pull on.

Continue up on pockets and jugs to large positive crimps on varnished face (crux) around bolt 4 or 5.

Easier climbing over ledges leads you into the slightly loose corner.

Carefully work around the loose blocks then trend up and right out of the loose corner (don't stay in the corner) past closely spaced bolts on good edges and pockets to the chains.

Two bolt anchor on the large ledge just below the top.

Longer and slightly less chossy than the routes on the east face.  I actually find myself coming back to climb this one and "Gary's Bulge".

This route climbs the southeast face of the blunt arete.  Relatively easy start on crumbly, nerve-wracking rock up to a tricky third clip (crux 1).  Then continue up the overhang on good holds, clip the fourth bolt, and mantle (crux 2).  Slightly runout, slabby climbing through the fifth to the chains.  There is an optional bolt to the right of the roof for topping out if you're so inclined.

Start just right of "Touch the Tip" and Left of the chossy dihedral.

Best to stick clip the first bolt and climb on cool flakes and pockets just left of the first two bolts.

Avoid the Choss around bolt 3 then climb past good solid jugs to ledges below the bulge.

Solid edges and quality pockets just below the bulge lead to a strange bulbous scoop...It looks weird and you're not sure if you want to grab it...But it's okay, just do it quick.

Once you're past the bulbous...Pull through the Bulge on good pockets and edges.  Clip the botched bolt at the crux (it's bomber!?) then establish yourself on the face above and balance your way up past good edges to the top.

Shares 2 bolt anchor with "Touch the Tip"  use caution as the edge at the top is pretty sharp.

One of the better climbs on the wall...Hopefully all the holds stay on this one!

For a good variation try "Touching Gary's Bulge".  Start on "Touch the Tip" and traverse into "Gary's Bulge" around bolt 4 or 5.

Simple, albeit loose climbing up to 30 seconds of fun varnished pockets at the top.  Sneak right at crux before going left, and watch out for the guano!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Meadow Rappel Rock