Start at the bottom of the flared chimney and then follow the slopey seam up out and right, this is definitely the crux but very fun. Continue up the crack around the corner to the top.

The Fault

Buck Fever

Left Side

Side Wall

Annihilator

Unnamed

Curving Crack

Morning Blues

Shoulder Crack

Out of Order

Hermes Chasing the Disco Queen

The Gobbler

Right Side

Mike's Butt Cheeks

Feelings

Between The Lines

Dream Weaver

Super Squeeze

The flared chimeny that The Fault and Hermes starts out of. Instead of escaping out, go straight for it and move over fist jams that slowly become much bigger, and much more flared.

Hop up on the ledge and climb the fatter hand/fist size crack just to the left of Wot and right of the the practice chimney.

A really fun hand to fist sized crack with some extras on the outside to help you out. This climb is the leftmost of the three climbs on the north facing wall near the top out gully. Well worth doing despite it's unimposing nature.

A hard start, and sustained movement up to the ledge. Once on the ledge, climb the beautiful, easy patina on the SE rounded arete. Originally listed as a 5.8 in the Bishop guide, this is most certainly either the worst sandbag, or some key holds have broken, as evidenced by the discolored rock in a few key places where a face hold would be great.

Descent:

Walk off right.

A very picturesque thin crack working right of the middle of the large overhanging prow. Very bouldery and hard crux pulling through the steep section at the bottom. Once you are through the crux keep working up the thin overhanging crack, and have fun!

Climb a short section of offwidth, using face holds outside it to reach a horizontal break. From here, move up and right into the flake filled chimney. Climb this until you hit a horizontal crack. Traverse left, grab a dubious looking knob/flake (last chance for pro), then pull out of the overhang and onto the slab above.

The THIN flake on the right side of the wall with Annihilator. Start on some fun fist jams then use the flake as a layback up to the top. Takes gear nicely at the bottom but no way would the rock not break toward the top if you fell on a cam. There is a bolt at the top you can set a toprope off and a hangerless bolt right next to it you can throw a nut onto for a little extra piece of mind.

The face climb just the the right of Dreamweaver. Set a TR off of a gear anchor on Dreamweaver then work your way through the shenanigans of the face/slab sequence and finish the last few feet the same as Dreamweaver. According to the book, the right arete is off. Feel free to use it though, just knocks the grade down to about 9+.

The prominent crack starting off of the sandy ledge on the middle boulder. Nothing to strenuous and pretty good hands toward the top.

On the west end of Queen. Hop onto the ledge then climb the thin crack in the middle of what is basically two boulders.

Climb the bolted east face/arete. First bolt is kind of high. Can reach around from the boulder ledge and clip the first bolt in lieu of stick clipping.

Descent:

Walk off right.

Start in the same corner as The Fault but then bust left over a few thin moves and into a low angle crack to the top.

Climb up the short slab to a horizontal break, then up the finger crack to the set of double hand cracks above.

A great first trad lead for somebody or a fun warmup for those who already know what they are doing. This climb goes up the hand to fist sized crack on the right side of the short wall with three prominent cracks (hence the name). Start off of the boulder or down in the pit and move over both holds outside the crack, and the crack itself. Smooth and easy, but nothing to get too excited about.

Start just left of Dreamweaver and work your way up some super slaby rock that technically could be called a finger crack, but is all friction off of the bottom. Work up into the steeper part of the face and move through some fun layback sequences to the deceptively hard top, finishing left of Dreamweaver. Like for morning blues the arete near this climb is technically off according to the book, and again feel free to use it just know it's not gonna be 11d if you do. Both Morning Blues and Feelings I only gave one start due to their kind of contrived nature.

Right between the Left Side and the Right Side, obviously, this fist to offwidth sized crack can be done using the holds on the outside or you can challenge yourself by using only the crack.

A short but very fun crack that arches up and right through the middle of a beautiful red face. Just begging to be climbed this route has good movement and takes even better gear. Walk off the back.

The huge flake that seems to be falling off of the boulder that Hermes is on. Do your best at offwidth climbing at the bottom then work your feet up and use the flake as a huge sidepull. The gear is just about non existent without some huge stuff and even then, they may seem a little hard to trust on the flake. It is really easy to set a bomber gear anchor at the top with gear up to a #4 and TR the sucker too. If you really want to have some fun try to stay in the crack the whole time, probably bumps the grade to 10+.

Description

Protection

Routes in Queen (North Face)