Originally thought to be 5.10 rated, the difficulty was   modified after the first lead attempts experienced difficulty and some   trepidation.

Batman has it in for Robin

Berlys Arête

Sully's Success

The Bear Den

Inverted Englishman Direct

Uncle Hal's Arete

Sulley's Belay

Lost Boys

Hollie's High Step

Bipolar Express (Don's Long Climb)

Dysphemism

Tyler Knows Mr. Toad

Butter My Biscuit

The Perverted Polishman

Thing 2

Evil Twin

Jennelle and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day

Only the Toad Knows

Gary Goes Home Crying

The Inverted Englishman

The Priest

Big Bro

Uncle Hal Direct

Mr. Poopers Backside

Welcome to State Brook

The Far Side (Previously 10lbs)

The Success of Sully's Bride

Tombstone Arete

Mr. Poopers

Snake in the Crack

Wally

Monsters Inc

Thing 1

Three Lions

Scare Factory

Welcome to the abyss.  A full length chimney, a unique route.  Watch out for moisture and slimy holds.  Chimney and stem your way up.  The crux in my opinion comes near the top where chimney narrows and one must negotiate the chockstones and move right to the anchors.  Apparently, small peeps can fit through the gap in the chockstones, I wasn't about to try that.

Start on the small horizontal ledge 1ft off the ground and 5ft left of the small overhang 10ft up. Climb straight up to the first bolt 12ft up (stick-clip optional). Continue up to the horizontal and move left onto the arête/huge flake. You can either stay on the face or move around behind the flake. Climb the arête, clipping two more bolts, to the ledge with three small pines. Make the precarious move off the ledge onto the main wall. Clip the final bolt then continue upward to the anchors.

On the right side as you face the main gully splitting this crag in two, climb up under the left end of the overhang, traverse right, exiting at its end with a big, reachy move. Then climb the right facing flake system to the top. Full balance required!

Climb the gulley and make the committing moves onto the right face. Climb up to the undercling in the roof on the right. Move up left of the roof to the top. 2 bolt anchors

Start to the right of Inverted Englishman on the arête/right-facing corner on top of the boulders. Climb straight up the arête/corner to rejoin the original route at the overhang. Climb up past the roof on the left to the ledge above. Traverse left and up the obvious crack to the top. Shares same anchor as original route.

Don't pass up gear on this one.  Some moves that make you go hmmmm.  Start under the right facing corner.  Power up this with good gear to a stance.  Tip toe up the arete until it is possible to step right and climb the face right of the arete to a ledge.  Climb straight up to the anchors.

Climb up the crack to more broken/blocky rock. Climb up to the small crack through the orange face to the first bolt. Move diagonal up right to second bolt and through the roof out its right side. Move back slightly left and continue straight up (2 bolts) to the top through much easier climbing.

Start directly below the v-shaped notch in the roof. Climb straight up and then transverse. Climb up to the roof and series of right facing corners. Climb the roof through a series of strenuous moves. Once over the roof traverse right to join a thin crack. Climb the crack and thin face to the top.

We found climbing the right side of the "Phonebooth" the easiest start.  Climb the crack as it widens to OW status.  The last 20' climb a beautiful open book with nice hand crack to an exciting chain clip.

It is a classic climb, but rope drag can become an issue.  Climb up the right facing corner under the square roof so you are jammed right under it. Traverse out left and swing left out around the corner back onto the face above the block. Traverse 6 to 8ft left on the ledge and climb straight up the crack. Continue up the crack system past two bolts to the anchors at the top.

Start at thin crack on the left side of the rounded buttress. Climb straight up the crack 10ft and then move around right onto the face at the two horizontals. Climb straight up the crack to the top.

Climb straight up through small holds to the unconvincing flake and gear. Trust the flake and move straight up to the horizontal and vertical crack to the top. Shares anchor with Only the Toad Knows.

An interesting adventure in weird climbing moves. Wander the up the face surrounding the crack finding the line of least resistance. The large crack narrows and forms a steep right facing corner. Step around this to the left then straight up to fixed anchors.The majority of this route is bolted, however, I think with a couple large cams, in additions to a standard rack, most of the bolts are not needed. As is, the climb is safe, I just thought I include my observation for the people who prefer not to clip bolts. I may go back to see if I can keep it G rated....that is if i can ever afford a #5 and #6 camalot....The name is a shortening of the original name.

Climb the crack until under a small overhang with a large right rising crack above.  Up this then straight to fixed anchors.

Climb the boulders and arête on the right side to the first ledge. Traverse right into the left facing corner and up to the larger ledge above. Make the hard moves off the ledge (crux) at the bolt and climb straight up through the crack and arête to the top.

Climb the crack to the anchors. Great gentle 5.8 crack climb with a clearly defined single crux 30 feet off the ground.

Make the exposed move around the right-facing corner to the face and up the obvious crack above. Climb to the horizontal and traverse out right onto the arête. Climb the arête passed 4 bolts to the roof. Move left and back right to position yourself directly beneath the crack in the right side of the roof. Climb straight up through the roof and crack to the top.

Start directly beneath the anchor at a vertical crack.  Make the hard moves off the ground and bouldery move through the finger-size crack. Move straight up to the large horizontal and widening crack to the anchor.

Climb the arête straight up. Just above the roof, traverse right and make the surprisingly hard move to swing across the large crack. Continue straight up the right side of the crack to the sloping ramp. Continue up through the blocky phallus above the ledge. Climb to the top of the phallus and to the anchor on the left. At the top you have to lean quite a bit left to reach the anchors.

Nice crack climbing.  Stupid tree.  Work up the obvious crack with good jams to a stupid tree growing out of the crack.  Either traverse right a few feet and face climb, or make a big move reaching past the tree to better jams.  You will be immediately stuck by lightning if you use the tree for upward progress.  Both paths lead to a stance below a wide flared crack.  Protect (optional big cam) and jam up to jugs and a good ledge.  Continue straight up to high anchors.   

  It is also possible to traverse left to the anchors of Bowline With A Blowjob Finish.

A real attractive line along a thin, winding crack that passes through a couple overhangs. Rated 10a in the online guide, with a comment there that it may be only 5.9. I TR'ed it and no way it's 10a, but I don't doubt it may feel more serious and engaging if the gear is a ways below your feet. So I'm going with the average of what I experienced and what the guide says.The name is a shortening of the original name.

Stem across the walls when possible and climb straight up to the small roof (bolt) and up the small crack (crux). Continue up the crack through easier climbing to a sloping ramp and into the corner. Move out left  passing about 8ft right of the Uncle Hal anchors to the anchors for this climb which are about 20ft higher.

Climb straight up the face through the short 3ft finger sized crack to the small ramp. Move up the ramp right and then back left on the face. Climb up the face passed two bolts to the roof. Escape the roof on the right by climbing passed the right facing corner and exiting out right (bolt) to the arête to rejoin the original route.

Climb straight up the crack using great laybacks until stemming becomes possible in the chimney. Traverse left slightly leaving the crack system. Continue straight up passed the bolt to the top. The anchors are on the backside of the precarious looking boulder at the top.

Start on the right side of the blocks below the v-shaped notch. Climb to the top of the blocks and traverse right 5 ft (bolt). Climb straight up the face into the right-facing corner. Climb the corner to its top and exit out left onto the face by a very small tree. Climb the crack system all the way to the top.

Start underneath the roof just to the right of the Gary Goes Home Crying. Climb up the left side of the left-facing block. Grab the crack behind the block and make layback moves to the roof. Traverse out right onto the large block. Standing on the left end of the shelf, lean out to clip the bolt. Climb straight up through odd horizontals to the small crack. Climb the crack as it widens to the top. Rejoin Gary and climb the phallus to the anchor at the top.

The bolt was place in the fall and the ledge below collapsed the following spring.  The climb was never complete. If you have done this route, comment so you can be credited with the FA. Climb the gully and move up left onto the large tombstone shaped block. Climb the arrette on the side of the tombstone to its top. Alternatively, climb the gully to avoid the hard moves on the tombstone (5.5). Move back right into a chimney/off-width Climb the large features to top. 

Climb up the arête trending right towards to a small ledge. Climb straight up passed the first bolt. Continue up with small gear and passed another bolt to the top. The anchor is on the side of the precarious looking mammoth-sized boulder above. The anchors are very easy to access from the top making this a great route to top-rope. Small cams are helpful.

Climb to the top of the large boulder pile on the right. Sneak through the boulders to a large ledge. Move up through fourth class climbing in the gulley. Continue through the gulley and around the corner to the face on the left side. Climb the face to join the arête and the anchors.

A great varied route with yet another creatively vulgar name.  Climb the short crack with good finger locks to a horizontal and a nice jug.  Shuffle to the right a few feet and follow a broken crack system to a bolt.  Nice face climbing through this section.  Pass the bolt to another easier crack system that is followed to the top.

Excellent straight crack line.  Despite the guide booklet's advisory that the start is harder than 10, I found it pretty straightforward with two good fingerlocks.  There is a long reach between them however, and I could see the move feeling like an 11 if you can't make the reach (or if you plug either slot with gear).  But I'm 5-9 with negative ape index and I had no real problem.  The rest of the pitch is sweet!

This climb is far better than it looks and well worth it. Climb up to the top of the boulder stack on the left. Clip the bolt and move up to the horizontal finger crack to the small roof. Traverse out left on good holds and make the exposed moved move up onto the nose. Continue up easier climbing trending right to join the following two climbs. Alternatively, you can climb straight up the steep face to the anchor.

Great face climbing and route naming.  A little dirty down low, but should clean up over time.  There is a tough move down low and getting from the last horizontal to the chains is a challenge. 

  Can be toproped by climbing the easier neighbor. 

  (The name was formerly "Bowline with a Blowjob Finish", but changed to "Three Lions" at the request of the FAer.)

This is the face climb behind the big tree at the right edge of the dirt cone with the erosion control logs. I'm calling it a 5.9 because IMO it's a much better route at that grade than calling it a 10d, which it is if you climb the top part past the single bolt. I climbed the route with the easier finish of the route to the left (Sully's Success 5.6) then climbed the 10d part on TR. Those moves were sketchy as hell and very non-obvious. And I thought the bolt was a bit too high, but again, I was on TR at that point.Formerly named "The Boy Scout..."

State Brook is a newly developed cliff (2013/2014) located in the town of Arietta. The cliff faces northwest which makes it a great hot weather destination. There are 30+ routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.11 in difficulty, as well as a few open projects. The climbing is single pitch with a mix of crack and face climbing up to 100'. The cliff features a bit of everything: thin technical face climbing, roof pulling, hand cracks, OW cracks and even a full length chimney. All climbs have two bolt anchors.I would expect to run into a party or two on nice weather weekends but, as with most Adk crags, I wouldn't expect to ever see a crowd.The rock quality is very good. Solid and grippy similar to nearby Lost T cliff. Many of the routes are still a little bit dirty, but should clean up with some more traffic. I would say bring a wire brush to be on the safe side. This is not to take away from the massive effort the Arietta Team has done to make State Brook easy to access, safe and an all around fun place to climb. I'd like to see a pic of the place before development began.There is plenty of information out there with full route descriptions and directions to the cliff. The Arietta Team has posted a downloadable PDF file here: thomannengineering.com/arie…Adirondack Rock has information as well:http://www.adirondackrock.com/newroutes.htm#SM_State_Brook and a new digital guidebook available in the Gunks+ app.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in State Brook