Half Dome Crack aka Party Time

Convergence

Half Climb

Born on the 4th of July

Just Chillin'

The Tube

Half Dome Unknown  2

Tin Can Alley

Crack a Cold One

Unknown

Dog Day Afternoon

Head Over Heels

Silver Slipper

This route is not horrible, but the protection is if you are leading it. It could be top roped, but you would need to place directionals first. It is somewhat like a tube at first as you climb up a squeeze chimney. The crux is about 3/4s of the way up where you must climb a left-angling offwidth. You can get your right leg in the crack and use the edge for hand holds. The guidebook by Jason Haas says to rack up to a #5 Camalot, but there are places where a #6 will fit. There is a fixed pin (not listed in the guide), and the bolt is 1/4 inch!  It is definitely a long way between gear placements sometimes.

The physical crux is pulling off the ground.  The mental crux is pulling rotten holds over the roof knowing you will deck.  Then there is one more tricky slab move before the anchor with the second bolt well below your feet.

Straight up from this anchor is a lone bolt you could clip on your way to the

Head Over Heels

anchor.  This bolt looked old.  If you wanted to continue to the upper anchor, it is probably safer to step right and finish on

Head Over Heels

, clipping the last bolt on that route.

This route has some chipped holds, but the climbing was interesting, so I gave it one star.  You clip the first bolt, which protects the crux, from a large dish you can stand in.  Above we found two chipped holds to the right which allow passage to a large hold above the crux.  The next part is fairly easy.  If you go to the

Convergence

anchor, you may not clip the second bolt which is a ways to the left.

This is a fun route and is very challenging.  There are several crux areas.  The first is above the first bolt on a thin slab.  The second crux is at the overlap there are small finger pockets below the overlap, and you have to reach for a large jug up high.  There is a good rest here before the route continues up a thin seam on a smooth slab.  It is not a bad route!  You can merge with

Dog Day Afternoon

after the anchor if you wish.

This route is on the Back Porch, a separate dome less than 5 minutes behind Little Half Dome.

It is a fun slab.

If you are climbing on the Back Porch, you might as well do this route.

The route seems to have two cruxes.  The first 10 feet seems to be the first one and the last 10 feet seems to be the second one. It seems like you could start to the left to make it easier.   The first climbing is on finger nail thick edges.  You can set up the top rope by walking around to the left.

New bolts, I am probably going to get them chopped. I did not put them in. This climbs has no crux. It is a great first lead for Platte friction.

This route is on the Back Porch, which is actually another small dome about 3 minutes walk behind Little Half Dome, around right.

The climbing is easy, but getting gear in, especially low, is tricky.  Bring a nut tool to clean the crack.

1st pitch: climb well-protected slab left of the large dihedral (The Tube) to the mid-point anchor (2 bolts with chains).

2nd pitch: continue up a slab to a short headwall while encountering some friable rock at the crux, staying directly below the crux bolt is the best rock. There are top anchors with 2 bolts and chains.

This is a nice, long route. It has pretty good rock (least friable of the ones we did today). I recommend it.

We did it in one pitch with no noticeable rope drag.

You can walk off right or rap down to the mid-station.

This is not my route, I'm just adding to the database. (This is route #11 in the new book.) The crux is in the crumbly band.

It is 120' long from ground, 100 feet from the ledge above.

Start right of

Tin Cat Alley

.

1st pitch: slab climb past a couple of flakes (protect with a finger to hand-sized cam in the larger flake with possible piece under the smaller flake) to a single bolt before the 2 bolt mid-anchor (no chains or rings, just hangers).

2nd pitch: do a long runout to a high first bolt as the slab steepens to crux at 2nd bolt, then it is runout on low angle slab to large ponderosa on ledge. There are no anchors at the ledge.

Descend by walking off easy terrain on left or do possible rap from the upper anchor on

Unknown

(10d) to mid-anchor and then do an additional rappel.

Description

Routes in Little Half Dome