A worthwhile adventure on the right end of the north Bend.

Interesting mix of climbing to ledge about 70' up, pass up the bad slung boulder here, chimney up another 30' to top out with good cracks for anchor, bring up follower, then traverse left to find Winds of Change rap anchor.

ADVISORY :CURRENTLY VERY DIRTY 2/2016.

Encouragement

Eat a Peach

Heartbreak of Psoriacis

Jungle Book

People, Places and Things

Dwarf Sweat

Mutiny in Manila

Winds of Change

Libretto

Wild Beast

Milk Truck

Cherry Bomb

Reach Deep

Tongue n' Cheek

Dancing Bear

"Unknown 5.9"

Unfit

Alar

Blood Lust

North Chimney

Microcosim

Living for the City

What's Left?

Great route.

I entered this at the FA given rating of 10b.

It is really sustained and insecure, feels more like 10c/d. Starts with tough finger crack, splitter hand jams up top gets wider as you go. Stemming options on Heartbreak to the left which is so close it seems fine to me, it splits off after the hard start.

This is a very good 5.7 crack. And if you have not climbed a 10c crack at Tieton, this gives you the chance to TR Living for the city. Don't let the 10c grade discourage you, if you have small fingers this is 10c, if not it may be more like 11a, which is how it feels to me.

This route is listed as 10c in Yoder's book, we thought it significantly harder then Pure Joy or any other 10c at the Bend, except for Living for the City which is also a sandbag. You will want to tape up, especially fingers, very sharp awkward moves that never really let up. This route is consistently harder then Winds of change.

This is not in the book. Start at the climber's trail in between the two largest fallen pillars. The right pillar has 2 bolts. Some horizontal cracks provide gear placement. Cross over the pillar gap and step into the crack. The left crack is fingers and the right crack is off-width with fists and at the top hand sized. At the top, head right onto the top of the pillar and use Tongue 'n Cheek anchors.

A great route, maybe stiff for the grade. I seem to remember the bulge about 25' up being the crux.

A thinner crack till you come out on a ledge, then right side to top.

Seldom climbed, would be better if cleaned.

mostly wide hands, all good pods full of dirt.

Start with double crack shared with Winds of Change, continue on left side crack till on ledge, the Yoder book says OW, but it is a chimney with some cracks for pro.

Mutiny in Manila is an excellent finger and thin hand crack which felt somewhat sustained with poor feet at times but also had a lot of good finger locks.

It's a steep finger crack that splits the top of a high column. The climbing to approach it is enjoyable and the finish is excellent. Several good finger crack moves with sporty/smeary feet.

Hand crack with a mantle move to the top.  Lots of little loose stuff on top.  Bolted anchor with rappel chains at the back of the ledge.  Shared anchor with Unfit, Milk Truck, and Reach Deep.

Start in the middle of the pillar and follow the path of lest resistance...hint you might have to break Tieton pillar tradition and climb on both sides of the bolts.  I thought about naming this route sidewinder...enough said.

This route gets 3 stars in Yoder's book so I had to try it, also one of the few routes in the shade. I was not a fan of this bear hugging the column with no foot holds after the 2nd bolt with a ways to the 3rd bolt. A good challenge to figure out.

Offwidth crack to the right of Milk Truck.

A tricky bear hug arete with thin edges. Lots of fun.

This is a crack line just to the right of Eat a Peach, and referred to our guidebook as an "Unknown 5.9." [zero stars] We discovered this gem when someone in our party wanted to 'warm up on something easy' besides Eat a Peach or the awesome 5.8 further left. It's not a warmup and I can't really recommend it except as a joke, or to the serious trad hardpersons out there (in which case this route might be for you!) It's sharp and jagged, dirty and seldom climbed, which means covered in lichen which may flake off and blow into your eyes, especially if it's windy. There's also a nice pile of dry loose dirt in there somewhere at face level when you're trying to place gear. It's goes from jagged hand jams to a solid fist section (highlight of the route?), then an offwidth to the top. Anything that looks like a useful edge on the offwidth is likely friable rock that will crumble off; remember to leave some of that behind for the next party so that they can experience the full value of this climb. If you all start climbing it, maybe it'll clean up and become a classic trad testpiece! ;)

Leftmost hand crack. Mantle up into gravel at the top. Bolted anchor with rappel chains shared with Wild Beast, Milk Truck, and Reach Deep.

A really fun route. Double crack, using the right side at the top out.

This is 10c in the Yoder book.

hard finger to tight hands crack, feels 10b compared to other 10c/b cracks on this wall

I tried only using the single crack for the start and both times only made progress by pulling on the Desperate crack too.

I recommend taping fingers and hands, sharp jagged edges.Maybe that is why it is named as it is.

You can use chimney technique, or stem around it. Fun route

First half of the route is sustained insecure technical stemming on a thin finger crack. Midway up the pitch it gets a bit easier as the crack widens to good finger jams.

If you can't get good finger locks in a #1 master cam / .2 X4, this route will feel hard for the grade.

I'd venture to guess there's an unknown FA since this crack is solid and you can use the shared anchor up top, but the route is not listed in the book. I'm naming it What's Left until any more beta becomes available. It feels 5.5/5.6, though easier than Unfit. Scramble up some bulgy rock with a bush then finesse your way up the crack until you reach a small bush. A sturdy flake is on top for mounting the ledge, and you don't have to bother with as much loose gravel as you do on the other routes to the right. There's a great small crack above the ledge for placing a directional before the anchor, or maybe a gear anchor if there's another good crack.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bend North