On the Billy Joel BoulderStand start on crimps all the way on the left side of the boulder, Traverse right on good jugs to get to iffy crimps. Join into Billy Joel using the start holds of Billy Joel and continue to the end of the problem. The cruxes are getting into the Billy Joel starting crimps and finishing the problem since it gets pumpy after a few attempts. See the image below for holds 

Piano Fingers Man

Pickle

Weekend Express

Sensei

Fickle Finger of Fate

Doorknob

Yatta!

Yosh!

Drop Top

Wax On

Count Dooku

Scurvy Traverse

Oscar the Grouch

The Initiate

The Aggro Crag

The Fly

The Karate Kid

Leopard Print Pumps

Mind Kontrol Ultra

Little Bitta Layback

Crack Epidemic

The Duke of Wellington

Sidious Stand

Napoleon

Sketch Pad

Cheddar Stacks

Skanderbeg's Big Toe

Billy Joel

Darth Vader

Sack Up

Brake Check

Padlock

The King of Prussia

Oreos

Kitchen Sink

Tall Wall Traverse AKA Bread Slice

Space Jam

Darth Lemur

Open Book Boulder

Skanderbeg's Shield

Look Mom, No Hands!

Mike O'Malley

Scurvy Direct

Cross Stitch

Joel Billy

Nimbus

Ladder To Heaven

Uptown Bad Boy

Spear of Destiny

The Battle of Waterloo

Cognitive Dissonance

Bath and a Half

The Pea

Big Fat Pauly

Wax Off

My Brother's Block

Mr. Miyagi

Stay Together for the Kids

Lesser Magick

Darth Sidious

Cirrus

Rubber Ducky

Z Cracks

Red Stilhettos

Darth Maul

Cumulus

Cracked

Penny Loafers

Always Two There Are

Project: Rocket Nozzle

Dumptruck and Firetruck

Dooku Stand

right next to crack epidemic on the same rocks start standing on a small foot, a crimp for the left hand and an under cling for the right. move to a small pocket then match on a sloper to top out jug.

Off the teal trail all the way up the steep hill after the streambed. Start with both feet and hands as far right and low as possible,  work up to the left into or past the slot, then utilizing some intermediate holds on the way to a big flake at the topout trending leftward. Stay on the front face. The landing zone can be dangerous.

Low start on left arete with left hand on 3/4 pad ledge and right in low, thin seam. Pull on and establish feet and make move out right to flat ledge. Work feet and top out.

Mr. Miyagi's sit-start but move to the rail on the left and top out the vertical face next to Wax On.

A little rougher than it looks but a pretty fun little slab above Lesser Magick. A couple of crimps and bad feet at the start, move up to the characteristic finger feature and top out over the highest point to the left.

A triangular flake under a big jug to the right. Sit, toeing into the small flakes near the ground with your hands in the large flake. Move up to the giant jug and topout with your choice of holds and a small mantle.

Start on two credit card sized crimps or even the side pull pinches with a little foot edge. Use a terrible intermediate near the lip or just jump from the start. Really hard single move.

Sit start on sharp crimps.  Work right and up on crimps then dyno for the top!

A really fun boulder but a crappy landing zone. Make sure your pads are set and your spotter ready. Do not use the shelf!    This one has a flaked rail on the left side and a few challenging slopers with a committing top out. Sit start under the rail and move to the right with a couple slopers and confident feet. Top out over the crack, do not turn right around the top.

At the steepest bulge on the Karate Kid boulder, start two hands on crimps next to the big knob, or alternatively start by hugging the arete with a choice of crimpy holds. Move left and find a blind sloper or crimp sidepull on the corner of the bulge with left hand, and continue to some sketchy slopers and crimps but solid feet on the vertical portion. A little tree sits on the topout.

Start as Always Two but turn right around the bulge with funky foot beta, matching the lip slope crimps and bumping up to juggy crack.

Start at the right with feet near the ground, a right hand side pull and a crimp for your left hand up top. Move along the top then make a wide left foot move to the little shelf.

A serious but easy highball slab, Oscar is messy at first glance, the fear junkies will enjoy some exposure!

Start standing on two sweet crimps, one has a triangular shape. Variety of holds up to the little pocket, move straight up on crystal holds for the topout. Careful of the small gap between the two slabs at the landing.

Sit start at the left of the craggy side of Tall Wall, left hand juggy side pull, right hand crimp, move to the big pointy triangle block and straight up.

At the back of the Karate Kid boulder, start left hand undercling, right hand side pull. Straight up, top out with the slopey flake.

Start standing in front of the bulge to the right of Mr Miyagi with sharp sidepulls but not on the cleaved chunk on the ground. Hoist the bulge and top out over the tallest point. Popper climbed this rock in untied timberlands hahaha

Layback along the jugs in the horizontal crack, then top out through the cave, V1.

 Sit start begins on the knob to the right, adding one strenuous move which is easier with a heel/toe cam if you can find it V2/3

Starts standing facing uphill on two crimps and good feet. Make a long move up left, then up the arete on nice holds to a big pointy jug feature and along the top rail with super sweet holds and moves the whole way to the topout. The thin flake on the left face should be avoided since it seems to be very hollow.

This one is a hidden gem. Go up the streambed, pass Darth Maul and Oscar the Grouch, hook a right up the steep hill near Big Fat Pauly and continue up to some of the largest formations in the bluff. 

  Get up on the big flat shelf to start the thin layback and gain a variety of good holds to continue to a heady top out. This one should be taken with care.

hidden behind cracked boulder is a rock inside the crevice with extremely chossy holds that could break. Be prepared to up the grade rating every time you crack a hold.

On the downhill corner, start standing on the little shelf, left hand on a weird crimp overhead, right hand undercling in the crack. Move up to a slopey hold then right to a big crimp and intermediate holds.

Starting to the right of Dooku on good side pulls above head height, left heel hook and lock off to the little horn hold.

Sit start under the Battle of Waterloo with both feet in the crack and both hands on the shelf, right hand to a big jug side pull. The rest of the shelf to the left is off. Move straight up with good feet and a long move to the big crimp with left hand. Up to nice holds for the topout.

A little slabby face that will force some footwork and balance.

Big sharp triangular shelf is the start. Straight up on nice holds.

On the backside of the boulder that his shield fell from, the hero's big toe sticks out from the arete. Feet under the lip, both hands on the big flat rail and use the arete hold and a simple mantle to get over the face.

See picture for Route Line. Sit start to the left with jugs. Big move up and right to two good edges. Traverse right using little pockets that are head height, one is about 1 foot above the other. Continue to move right to a nice side pull and jugs, then top out.

 I’m a new climber so grade may be off. Found the route which has clearly been done before but just wanted to add it to this site.

Directly around back and up the hill from Darth Maul. Start matched on the big jug at eye level, committed moves on really sweet crimps.

On Cracked Boulder's vertical face, directly above Cross Stitch. Start standing with left hand in a big undercling and right on a slopey sidepull. Up to the big rail and commit to an interesting topout.

Start on the big triangle flake of Doorknob but deadpoint to the big square cutout with left hand and top out without using the big jug to the right.

Start standing on the little shelf, right hand in the crack undercling and left on the weird overhead crimp. Move right along the crack, continue up the crack to top out.

A really cool set of moves gets you started on this one. Potential for toe and heel hooks, depending on your size. The topout is the crux, but you can stand on the big block for a rest before attempting it. Avoid using rocks delineated by the vertical cracks on the Cross Stitch boulder for the most interesting climb.

 

Start on a big black undercling jug, follow multiple jug lines around the right arete and top out as per Bath and a Half on the right most jug ledge. Pretty much the most fun easy bouldering in Allamuchy so far.

Tall Wall is ten minutes up the stream bed. The main face is a crimpy wall, The Initiate (V2), the adjacent side is The Aggro Crag/Mike O'Malley (V1). Some folks I talked to like to call this block the Bread Slice and mentioned that the traverse line was a fun challenge when they were out with their friends; Start sitting at the short block on the left and move right, onto the craggy face, then around the corner onto the clean face, then to the far right. Some of that group I talked to also mentioned a friend of theirs bolted a cave up in the woods behind these features but upon inspection the ropeable climb(s) would require some cams and guts.

The kind of climb you can't find but wish you could. I stumbled into a new formation, smack in the middle of the woods, half a mile off trail. It's easiest to find this one from the road. The best way I can describe the location is between the Scout Reservation and the parking lot for the main wall on Waterloo Rd sits a private residence in the State Park. Far to the right of this home (be respectful!) is a series of stone walls, hidden by brush but visible in the winter. Up the hill past the walls are some obvious formations. 

  Start at the right side of the cave and follow the ledge and cracks diagonal left to a heady top out over a fair landing. Bring a couple pads and a buddy. Top out over the large crack with a bunch of choices for jamming then mantle.

You start at the lowest point of the over-hang with both hands on mild slopers, left toe on an edge underneath the over-hang, and right heel hooked on the side of the over-hang.  Traverse the over-hang to the left, and then slab directly up the apex.

V0:start at right side traverse to center pulls. Pull top and out.V0: traverse left to right and right to left or whatever and top out in center

Sit start begins under the shelf ledges and goes straight up. Left hand start on small sharp crimp, right hand on gaston ledge. Project line begins on crescent hold, farther to the left and connects one very intense move to join the pure line.

A sweet slab with varying angles, features (or the lack thereof) and endless possibilities for no hand ascents and warm up runs. Visible from the unmarked trail, about 75 yards from the parking lot.

Aggro Crag Extension. Start on the small block next to the craggy side of Tall Wall as low and left as possible. Move up and right on the block and get up the craggy face. Heady but the committed move is low, very fun. Check your landing, have good spotters for the top out.

On the Scurvy boulder, start sitting under the prow and reach left hand up to a fair crimp. Right hand starts on the very sharp crimp seam. The boulder to the left is off, no jamming in the crack or smearing to start or topout. Pull on and toss left to the better crimp, get over the prow with use of a slopey crimp and iffy mantle. Starting with both hands a bit lower might add a grade but it's awkward.

This wall is directly under the Cracked Boulder and contains three or four problems depending on how you topout. On the left is Cross Stitch A, starting laid back on nice features, topout over the left of the start (V1). The middle is Cross Stitch B, start sitting holding the big block feature and topout following the crack left, over the bulge (V1), or topout to the right standing on the start block (V0). The right side, starting on the grippy sloper pull on the arete and the big crimp for the right hand is Turntable (V0).

 As the name implies this is billy Joel but backward. Start all the way to the right of the boulder. Stand start using the rail below the ledge used to exit Billy Joel. Traverse left past the starting holds ( not used) to top out on the left side of the boulder

Highball above Big Fat Pauly, near Cumulus. Start standing left hand on the arete, right in a jug, move to a right hand sidepull and commit to a couple weird sloping crimps near the top. Be very cautious on this one.

Sit start on crimps at the bottom of the boulder on the slightly overhung side. Bump right hand over to the crimp rail on the right, match with the left hand and move to the top for a slopey finish.

Stand start using the same crimps as "Piano Finger man". Go into the jugs but instead of going low, go high using half pad crimps to traverse right into the crimps used in the middle of Billy Joel. The cruxes are staying on the half-pad crimps with bad feet and then having to lock off and twist to get from the Billy Joel middle crimps to the crescent indented hold. Top out same as Billy Joel 

Standing, left hand sidepull, right hand Gaston. Go to the left around the small tree growing in the top.

Update. A large thorn bush is now growing over the topout. 

 This boulder is right on Waterloo Rd but between mile markers 4 and 5. It's easily visible from the road and is only 30 yards or so from a convenient pull off. Just hop out and enjoy this one-off, very fun problem. And its companions farther up the hill...

 Start standing, left hand on a big jug and left foot on the orange triangle. The shelf is off except this orange triangle. Move right to a matched crimp and up to a slopey jug and more fair holds. Top out to the right of the live bushes.

Next to the Pea is this fun little problem that starts standing on the pointy jug and a choice of holds, then a move or two to the right and over the slopey bulge.

Start under the little roof with a bunch of holds in reach. Jug crimp for the right and overhead sloper jug for the left. Gain matched jug to the left. Hoist the bulge and gain jug ledge to topout! Super fun!

Up the unmarked trail and trending right at the two forks, up the yellow trail to the very top of the Allamuchy Ridge is this unmistakable 20 ft monster. It's called the Pea by locals as a sort of sarcastic poke at the large size of this rock. There are at least two good lines on it but the downclimb is tough. The front has a stand start with some sweet pulls where a crack formed; follow the weakness to the top, about V2. The back of the boulder has a few moderate and tall slab lines with a gnarly fall under them, seem to be about V2 or harder. Between these two is a shelved problem that should go at V1. Be super careful about getting off this rock.

Start sitting in the juggy features, move right, gain the Crescent hold and use the off width chimney to top out.

At the back of the Karate Kid boulder, start on the knife and move right, up the awkward staircase and top out over the big slopey flake.

In the middle of the talus in the stream bed on the way up to Tall Wall, The Spear etc. A short block with a couple shelves and one of those slopey topouts we love to hate.

A one move wonder with an easy top out, Sit start on the left side of the Karate Kid bulge. With your left hand in a slippery crystalline pocket, right hand on a sharp crimp, both feet off to the right on a small shelf. Deadpoint to an adequate handhold or the nice jug, then top out over the tallest point. Recently, Alex Martin sent Miyagi with a static sequence! Alternatively: stand start right hand in the jug, left hand in the crystalline pocket V0

A fun juggy undercling start on a split boulder about 50 yards up the stream bed from Cracked. A fair landing. Good warm up

Big triangular slab behind the Spear. Just two strenuous moves. Start right hand on a nice sidepull, left on the arete jugs. Move up to the notch with your right hand. The move is a bit reachy but the hold is good. Sweet spine feature for the left hand on top out.

Start on Always Two There Are and finish up Sidious Stand with some awesome movement around the lip.

To the right of Cumulus, start on jugs and move up over the bulge, trending slightly right for the top out.

To left left of Doorknob, start in low jugs and gain slopers and then the top out. A tough little lowball to warm up.

A couple of 5.6 to 5.9 lines and easy traverses to warm up on in the back area near Big Fat Pauly

On the knobby holds to the right of Leopard Print Pumps. Move up and then left across the ledge slopers. The jug holds on LPP are off, smear feet. Top out through the cave.

Start standing with hands far apart on opposing side pulls, find a couple intermediate holds, then left hand to a large sloping pinch near the top. Top out without using the chock rock. Cue Imperial March

If you approach from the rear of the boulders by hiking up the unmarked trail, then forking right into the woods at the first footbridge, this wall is your first stop on the left... Cumulus is a very sharp sit start on the left of the wall pictured. Hard and kind of awkward even using the cheat block under the face but the sit move is a hard 3, comparable to the strength of Mr. Miyagi sit. Two fingers crimpy pointy thing on the start block for the left hand, right on the slopey side of the block. Throw right to the gnarly crimper and side pull jugs from there.

The cracked boulder has a few easy lines but it's a good landmark and a nice warm up on the way to bigger and better things. On the downhill side is Brake Check (V1) and Allamuchy Layback (V0) on the downhill arete/crack as seen in the beta picture.

Under LPP, climb the vertical face with crimps to start and move up to the sloper top. Move left and topout around the highest point of the slabby rock.

The incredible, close to classic compression line next to Darth Maul on the big eggy boulder up the stream bed. Start sitting on the rock under the black sidepull crimp, squeezing the other side of the block with the left. Throw the right up for a sloper, shimmy up to the duck bill hold and throw for the top out holds. Pretty bad feet throughout and very steep, super fun!

An absolutely superb line on the cliff band above Skanderbeg's Shield. Start on low side pull jug, move through beautiful holds and a beta intensive sequence to a sloped shelf on the left. Burl your way over the lip!

Match the slope crimps and toe hook, utilizing a triple bump to get into the crack jug. Stand start to Count Dooku.

Enter across from Waterloo Village main entrance to a short dirt road that leads to a dirt/grass parking lot.

 Rock in this area is mostly what seems to be granite. The quality of some of the rock is a bit chossy so bring a brush and test questionable holds. There are some amazing holds and features in Allamuchy and the friction is typically high and textures run the gamut from slick crystal to coarse feldspar.

 There are two trails from the parking lot: one is to the right as you enter the lot and is marked with teal blazes as part of the Highlands Trail. The other is to the left side of the lot and is unmarked.

 Do not trespass on the Scout Reservation. Signs make the boundary apparent. As facing up the hill on the unmarked trail, to the right is Allamuchy Mountain State Park, the left is restricted. The unmarked trail leads first to Look Mom! then to Drop Top which is off trail to the right and then The Karate Kid boulder further up the trail at the top of the hill. Over the hill and trending right is off trail access to the back area: Cumulus, Nimbus, Tall Wall, Big Fat Pauly, Z CRACKS.

 Follow TEAL blazes from the lot to the left fork and across the first small stream for Doorknob area. This is the closest quality climbing to the parking area. Across the second stream bed is Cracked Boulder/Cross Stitch, Pickle and Leopard Print Pumps (LPP off trail) further up teal at the topoint of the hill. Follow the second streambed over big talus and blocks to The Spear, Darth Maul, gallery of the Sith (some of the hardest and highest quality), Tall Wall and Cumulus/Nimbus and much more interesting rock.

 There are other boulders along Waterloo Rd which are worth stopping and looking for. Please be respectful of the folks that live in the State Park and do not park on or walk through any private property.

 !Leave nothing but chalk marks! That means no trail markers, no dog poop, no cig butts, beer cans, tape balls or other refuse, and definitely no camping or fire making, ever!! Please be respectful of the land, rock, wildlife, other hikers, bikers, hunters and climbers that use this area.

 There are still some moderate and hard projects at Allamuchy, even true classics to be unlocked! Those which I know of and have worked to develop will be listed here with a clear indication that the ascent is either unknown or is a definite, unclimbed project. If you claim an ascent or have more proper and historical beta, please contact hennehammocks@gmail.com or direct message me on MP. I love this place and I hope you share my passion! I want to represent and report on this beta page correctly and as accurately as possible and we can help each other to share the amazing climbing in Allamuchy! Thank you all for your hard work and input to make bouldering in Allamuchy a true experience.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Allamuchy Mountain SP Boulders