This route is not good for a new leader.  Placing gear for the first 15 feet is awkward and working up through the middle section as well.  The flared dike up in the middle section fades and can make things interesting.  The second pitch is really nice.  Offers some opportunities to TR some of the harder routes up that face.

The Hobbit

Scream Dream

Accidents Will Happen

Cheap Skate

Cream

No screaming allowed

Snow White

Silent Scream

Soft-N-Pretty

Jet Stream

Scream Seam

Taken By Force

Crusin' for a Brusin

Hoopers Arête

Cling Free

Pauper

Typhoon

Mid Life Crisis

Monkey on a Football

Cheap Tape

Super Slide

Who's Got the Juice

Little Women

A striking arête slapper halfway up Baldy. Start on good holds around chest height. Make your way up the block using the arête and face holds. 

A slab climb with delicate climbing down low getting easier higher up the wall.  Great friction climb.

Climb up the gully with a flaring crack on the right side. Find the best place to pull the bulge over right, then up another thin crack to a ledge. Unprotected slab climbing up a polished white section of granite gives this climb its name. Then up to another flaring crack.

From the second bolt of silent scream, crank directly over the bulge by the bolt. Continue on thin, unprotected face climbing making your way to the bolted belay.

Follow the middle water streak.  Undercling the long arching crack up to it's intersection with the streak.  Step over the arch and 20 feet up the slab to a left leaning crack that you follow to another bolt.  The continue up the slab.

A four inch crack marks the start. Boulder up fifteen feet to the first bolt then continue up the face making your way to another bolt then easier slab climbing to the same rap station as Taken By Force.

Variation of Little Women that avoids the crux roof by climbing the slab on the left.

Climb the black water streak to the right of Snow White making your way to the "cats paw" with a bolt protecting the crux. From here runout face climbing for about fifty feet to the second and last bolt.

A good short lead, one of the better at Quartz.  Hard moves near the top.

From a small ledge climb up a flake making your way to the first bolt, continue up the face to another bolt then easier slab climbing to a bolted rap station.

Bolted line to the right of the Hobbits 2nd pitch. The direct line goes harder, more like an 11ish move. A traverse from the left allows the easiest entry to the line and you should be able to clip the first bolt from the ledge. Crux just above third bolt.  Climbs up dime edges, very sustained.

Pull the bulge above creams start, hard stemming up to a sloping ledge and mantel up. Continue with Cream or pauper 

Starts on the unprotected face with jugs up a water streak up to the thin seam/ shallow crack. Thin gear, hard moves 10ft out of your last microstopper. Better be on your game to attempt this onsight.

Start on Cream and traverse over to Pauper.

Move up and left to the first bolt about 25 feet off the deck the typical Quartz Run Out then head up and then a little left to gain a right trending ramp with the second bolt that you follow to the top.  This route used to be a free solo only. 

A great workout for your feet.  Typical of Quartz Mountain slab.  Works through some excellent moves on serious slab.

Climb the runout direct start up the slab at 5.8 or traverse in from the side.  Climbing is easy and straightforward above.  A great starter route for leading slab.

Climb the corner to the overhangning start of the black streak.  Turn the overhang and continue up the streak to a large ledge below the second pitch of the Hobbitt.

The wall between the Headwall and left of the South America formation.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 05. Sea of Screams