Nice route shaded by the flake. A chockstone at the top stops the rope from running in the crack. A nice shaded belay location on Greg and Al's Excellent Adventure is a bonus.

Fake Out Flake

The Bickerson's Dirty Habits

Greg and Al's Excellent Adventure

Jibbering Seconds

The underside of some the granite is chunky crumbles otherwise, the surface it great. The crux is a semi roof move over a large flake 20 feet up. Great nut placements along with two #3 BDs and a #4 BD.

The base before the first bolt is super thin, with ground-fall potential. If you are at the second bolt and miss the clip, there is ground fall potential.   A direct start is harder then 5.9   If you use the left side of the flake to bypass a direct start, the route runs near grade.

Sleeping Cactus Wall is one of three crags down at the north end of Little Granite Mountain, on the east side. There are a good selection of moderate routes in Sleeping Cactus, from 5.6 up to 5.10a. The rock can be a little less than great in places, but it's not too bad for the most part. 

  I'm not sure these days if SCW sees much traffic, so you probably don't have to worry about sharing with other climbers. The best routes at the crag are Tupelo Honey (5.9+) and Chasm View (5.10a). A rap station with chains is located sort of dead center on the wall to get back down.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sleeping Cactus Wall