Orignally an old 5.9X route established by Ken Duncan and Jim Karpowicz as "The Rack". This route was dangerous, long forgotten and not being climbed.  Thanks to Jim and Ken for giving me permission to retro bolt this route.  I added a new 2 bolt anchor with quick links, fully bolted, and replaced the one old manky bolt from the original line.

The Rackless (Formerly The Rack)

Headwall Cave Left (Craigmile Memorial)

Scofflaw Arete

Originally climbed as a traditional lead back sometime in the 80's I think by Dave Craigmile.  This line had been forgotten about and was not being climbed due to the dangerous nature of the route. I contacted Karp and let him know of my intentions to retro bolt this line as Dave is no longer with us.  Since Jim was cool with it I took action and bolted the line.

 Start left of the cave central piller and watch for loose chossy rock for the first 20 feet or so. Climb up to the dihedral in a stellar postion as you ascend working toward the middle crack. Stay left of central crack working your way up to a 2 bolt anchor.

This climbs the left-hand arete to outer face of the access chimney to Sickle Ledge.  Originally protected by slinging a nearby tree, the tree protection is no longer an option and new bolts were added. Work the arete climbing past two bolts staying right until the it slabs out and leads to the new 2 bolt anchor.  The first bolt appears pretty high and committing from the ground but this was truly the safer option.  Adding a lower bolt would cause the climber to swing left and take a nasty whipper into the wall.  If one was to fall on the committing move to reach the first bolt, it really is not bad with a spotter and again the better option.

Stands at the top of the Khumbu Dirt Fall and is an obvious orienting feature.  The headwall is the upper portion of the bluff with the cave directly below.  Routes are either North or South of this feature.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in [Redacted]