A thin easy crack, just right of El Patron's chimney. Hard part is the start. After the big ledge, stay in the wide and stem your way to the mussy hooks.

Electra Glide

Phoenix Five Six

El Patron

Master Splinter

Crown Dancer

Nefertiti

Apapacho

Frog Leg Squimney

Hornet Swarm

The Horn

A line that begins wide and narrows to a seam at the summit. The is just left of the rappel and the wide 5.9. Approach base of chimney and squirm around the big flake to easier climbing above. You can easily pass the overhung stuff above on big face holds.

Climb the moderate hand crack that moves right of the roof. When the hand crack ends, move left for an easy top out and walk off (to the right). Good feet, good jams, good gear. We rapped it first and gave it a once-over, but there are a few loose bits of rock in the crack.

First crux is passing the third bolt; second crux is frictiony face up high. Much easier if you stay on the bolt line up high.

Start right of a left facing dihedral (actually a giant flake) and left of Frog Leg Squimney about 50' at a thin crack. Gain a ledge @ 15' up and start the main crack that quickly becomes wide. Face holds abound just make sure to look outside the crack.

The crux is a couple bolts off the upper ledge. Stay left after the crux on the arete.

Steep start and easy moves past it to the meat. Pass roof and keep squeezing to make the anchors.

Begin on left side of 15' pillar about 50 yards right of Horn Crack; follow crack to ledge and rest before tackling crux overhung shallow chimney (crux).  Easy climbing to the top.

Climb thin crack and face to ledge about 40' above, same as Electra Glide. Rest and fire the steep thin crack on the right wall.

Coming over the lower roof felt hard to me. Look for easiest way up at top or take the Bingham variation (the hard way).

Exit Gorge is very close to the car. Only 3 sport routes here and several trad lines. After you pass the gate, continue due south to the start of the Exit Gorge (only top is visible as you approach). Nefertiti is at the start of this gorge.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Exit Gorge