This is the original route on the south face of Koala Rock. It's a testpiece to be avoided when it's hot.  Look for a single bolt at the start that was placed after the first ascent.

Heat Stroke

Koalie-San

Exercise in Futility

Too Rolling Stoned

Round River

Round River Direct

Through Being Cool

Cool Air

The Knob

Purple Haze

Virgin Arete

Suck my Kiss

South Gully

To Live is to Die

Exit of Humanity

Too Rolling Stoned Extension

I'm your life

Round There

Keep The Faith

Crazies

Cool Man Luke

Buffalo Power

Ryan's Arete

Thin Air

Ryan's Direct

Changing Lanes

King of Pain

Hero of the Day

Round Here

Climb past the first set of anchors of Too Rolling Stoned. Work up and right onto the arete feature above. The rock composition changes as soon as youre on the upper feature. Work onto the face just to the left of the arete, climbing on welded slick holds. Climb through a hard boulder problem to the extension anchors.

Fun route! It starts out in the lie-backing corner system that would eventually become more face climbing. It follows pretty straight line until the end. Climb the left side of the last block to reach the anchor. 

The crux would probably be pulling away from the crack and moving to the right toward the anchors. The crack is pretty self explanitory with mostly stemming and palming/edges. The gear is so-so.

Start out climbing to the left of Ryan's Arete. Good holds run out suddenly leading up to the crux at perma-bolt 3. Work into the cryptic crux section and power your way to a good clipping hold at bolt 4. Enjoy the next 5 bolts of climbing on good crimps and jugs up to the first set of anchors.

Three pitches of moderate sport climbing in a beautiful setting above the River.  First pitch goes from large tree at the base up to anchors.  Second pitch can go left of slab above anchors, or slab can go direct (5.7?).  Third pitch goes left and around catwalk then up to the top.

Crux passes the first few bolts, on reachy kinda slick holds. After that it eases up. This is a must do alternative to the last pitch of round river.

The crux comes after the 5th bolt, trying to get to a right hand crimp that seems so far away. A high left foot is crucial here. From there, wonderful positive crimps lead to a shared anchor with Cool Air. This route has some of the best stone in the park!

One of the best climbs on Koala!   Climb the wide arete on the East side of the formation on beautiful red orange and white stone. Technical crimping at 3/4 height is sure to make you smile.

This route has Smith Rock's biggest Knob. The thing is huge! The crux hits early at the first bolt, try to grab, hold, and move off the knob. As soon as you reach the second bolt, the holds turn huge, and the climbing turns much easier.

An extremely powerful yet technical climb. Start out traversing a cave and climb into the purple rock where the crux ends. Some hard to find body positioning and crafty footwork make the grade. 

A short route on a great rock. Stick clipping the first bolt recommended. This route had been chopped and ignored for a long time till the recent re-establishment. Nobody seem to know exactly who chopped it. Definitely not by the first ascentionist. According to Alan Watts, well over a decade ago there was this guy who went around the park and chopped routes for his own whatever the reasoning, and it could've been chopped by the same guy. Anyway all the original holes were in great shape and it's been re-bolted with the modern glue-ins. 

Climb the right side of the south end of the formation starting with a few steep moves off the ground to a short bolted arête and finish with easy face climbing on the slab above to a bolt anchor. It is possible to solo 4th class to the anchors from around to the right and up.

Easy route to Thin Air's anchors if you have gear or if Koala Rock is busy(!) Many options for protection until easy last few feet to anchors. Some of the placements are fiddly though. Loose rock up high, and somewhat gritty—what you would expect from an obscure 5.4 trad route.

An incredibly fun route toward the top of the Southeast Face, this climb works through a fun traversing section down low and then reaches amazing jugs and tufa-like features which bring you to the crux moves on some thinner crimps before finishing on jugs.  Super fun and worthwhile.

Pint sized route with a short but fun crux right off the deck. Walk off on climbers right.

This route has a fun short chimney that opens up into easy slab climbing to the anchors. the crux is probably either getting into or out of the chimney. depends on your style.

The crux move is the first move.  After that the route backs off to much easier nubbin hiking to the anchors.

Short route has a stout crux with hidden crimps on the right side. commitment is a must to get through it clean if you don't climb much harder than the grade with gear. the route eases after the bulge.

A long meandering flake that overhangs a slab with thin features. Crack starts fist size and grows to off width by the top. Liebacks and full body jams to rest.  

  Although rated at 5.7 by Watts, feels significantly more difficult than routes with similar features and ratings such as Sky Chimney or Spiderman.

thin crack just to the right of Round There on the left portion of Koala Rock.  Shares anchor with ROund There. Runout above the crack but fun

Varied sport route just left of where the trail meets the base of the crag. Start out in a corner, move left on the face above.

Start up the face/seam just left of the arete clipping older looking glue-ins for the first 4 clips. Veer a bit right through some odd polished rock and follow a dike for a bit before gaining the arete.   Once you reach the arete you will be clipping new bolts.   Follow the arete to a Fixe biner anchor.

Great 5.10 multi pitch!1st pitch requires gear and the rest is bolted. Where the trail meets the crag you will be at the base of the climb.Pitch 1:Follow thin crack up to a bulge. Pull the bulge and follow the crack/face above to a bolted anchor. (5.9 120 ft.)Pitch 2: Crack through some bulges on excellent rock up and right to another bolted anchor. (5.10a 60 ft.)Pitch 3: Finesse a step bulge just above the anchor then wander up and right to another bulge. Above the last bulge climb huge holds to a third set of anchors. (5.10a 100 ft.)Descent options: -Walk off the backside, short 4th class downclimb, then scree ski to the base, South side (left) is preferred-Walk off backside with a short rappel.-With no climbers below you, rap the route with a single 60m rope. From the anchor at the top of pitch one rap into the gully on the East side of the formation.

Begin and finish on Ryan's Arete, but cut right to the alternative bolt line for two clips.  Hard side-pulling, smearing, and clipping await you.  Thankfully, the clip-blowing falls above the roof are clean.

A fun way to plug some cams after lugging the rack up for Thin Air. A little contrived but good climbing nonetheless. Start up the thin crack of Thin Air's first pitch (5.9+ if the cheater block is not used), then traverse/ undercling the obvious horizontal crack out right, then follow the crack straight up to anchors for Suck My Kiss. You can clip the last bolt of that route or head up straight up to the anchors from your last piece of pro on easy terrain. Can also be used as a slightly more engaging first pitch for Thin Air. 

Fairly steep jug hauling is interrupted by a short crux after the 5th bolt, don't miss the chalkless hold out right. Well protected and lots of fun.

To the left of the knob. This easy, but fun, short route makes a fine beginners lead, or something to do if you find yourself on the backside of the Koala.

A fun route with interesting moves on less than perfect rock.  An excellent early lead.

High concentration of 1 to 4 pitch routes in the 5.5 to 11+ range including a number of recent additions. Good place to take the dogs.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Koala Rock