A variation finish to Cross-trainer which can be reached several different ways. It climbs a chimney/offwidth crack system for a pitch up to the summit. Not as difficult as it looks. Starting from a big grassy ledge, climb into a chimney pod. Then stem your way up an off-width section to a small roof. A large chock stone helps get past this section, although the chock wiggles slightly as you crank on it. Easier climbing leads to the top, and keeping to the right will place you at the summit anchors for Cross-trainer.

Circus Finish

Queen's Gambit

Sotol Roof

Punch In The Nose

Cross-trainer

Lone Piton

Ring Route

Red Squares

King Me

Ring Leader

Knight's Move

Checkmate

Green Thumb

Pawn's Promotion

Worth the Effort

Opening Moves

P1:  From the table-top ledge, head pretty much straight up towards the roof to the left of the blue line in the below photo.  Set a belay somewhere below the roof. 5.4, ~70 feet? [If you set the belay above the roof, there is some risk of a gear belay set around a detached block and a stance within striking distance of a fall from the crux.] 

Show's the approach gully plus 1st, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear anchors as we set them.  For someone leading at the grade, recommend setting the 2nd belay somewhere before the horizontal blue line; otherwise, there is some risk of a belay on a crummy gear anchor and stance within striking distance of a fall from the crux.

  P2: Bypass the roof on its right.  Stand on detached block above the roof and ponder the crux.  A move or two sees the leader to easier terrain including face / slab climbing past two or three horizontal cracks.  Set the belay on a large horizontal crack 5 or 10 feet to the right of a bunch of stick bushes of about a coffin-sized volume.  5.8? ~70 feet?  Note:  there used to be a good crimper up above for the crux move; it broke off; instead, think "bear hug". 

  P3: Head up vertical cracks until one can traverse right on a large horizontal crack (3 or 4 inch) for about 8 feet.  Face climb up on runout terrain for about 25 feet to a large and flat belay platform with bomber chockstone way at the back.  5.5, ~70 feet? 

  P3:  Traverse right and later up for about 70 feet into a huge cleft or alcove with a substantial roof system.  One can use one or two bolts of Cross-trainer along the way.  Belay on a very comfortable perch immediately up and right of the alcove - 4 inch and 2 inch gear for anchor.  5.4, unsure pitch length. 

  P4:  Very short - traverse right along a very large crack / ledge for about 30 feet and then up again about as much to a boulder field and belay. 

  We linked P3 and P4 using a 70 meter rope.  Not sure whether a 60 meter rope would make it.

Queen's Gambit is located between King Me and Green Thumb. It follows line C on the old Checkerboard topo. The top pitch is said to be the original Circus Finish, but this name has since been applied to another route. It is basically a slab climb with a featured chimney for a topout.

 Pitch 1 is shared with King Me. To get to it, scramble up the gully above the end of trail (left of Cross-trainer). Rocky gully is followed by slab on the left and then short section of vegetated gully to a ledge/groove on the left. Pitch 1 goes up past a horizontal crack and up the slab with three bolts to a two bolt anchor. (Protection for this pitch is basically two quick draws.)

 Pitch 2: Start up the shallow, heavily featured corner (same as King Me for the first 10 feet), but continue up and left part a bolt, up on the featured right side of a roof. Climbing continues past another bolt, then mostly along the right side of the column for most of the pitch. Three more bolts protect this section, which ends at an easy traverse to the left close to the the level of the trees on the left. You can build a gear anchor or use the rap anchor at top of Green Thumb to belay from.

 Pitch 3: (and Pitch 4) stay on the same section of rock delineated by two deep chimneys/gullies. Pitch 3 heads right to a more featured terrain but gradually shifts left again and ends at a two-bolt anchor.

 Pitch 4: go directly up from the bolts along thin crack. Terrain will soon become much easier. Head for the alcove left of the large green bush/tree.

 Pitch 5: The crux. Top out by climbing the chimney, past some chocks. Exit left below the roof onto a narrow but comfortable ledge. Take this left to a nice layback flake. Follow that up to easy ground hanging generally somewhat left and up the slab to a belay among the boulders.

 Chimney-free alternative for Pitch 5: start up the wide zig-zag crack on the left to an arete. Step onto the boulders left of the chimney and follow the tops of them to where they reach the chimney about half way up to the roof (above any squeezy parts). Continue up to the roof and left as before.

This route is all about the roof. The corner system leading up to the roof is well protected 5.7 and has ample stemming opportunities. The roof move is very exciting though, and will stretch you out as you grapple over the lip. A key hold as you pull over the roof is a fragile-looking horn, which adds additional spice. Do you crank on the horn and risk popping it and you off into air? or do you avoid it and increase the difficulty of the moves. Immediately above the roof is a ledge which provides a good belay stance. This ledge is 30m off the ground and no fixed gear is currently present. 

  From the sotol ledge a large crack system can be followed for another 25m (5.5?) and one can then reach the anchors for Checkmate off to the left.

This multi-pitch sport route was designed for exposing beginners to the many facets of multi-pitch climbing. The entire route is bolted, but can also be led with traditional gear making it ideal for a sport climber breaking out into the realm of trad climbing. The climbing is fun and varied, a mixture of cracks, slab and face moves. Some may find bolts placed next to good trad placements distasteful. Don't climb it then, there are plenty of pure trad lines up the Checkerboard Wall. 

  Jokingly referred to as the "Overbolted," this route has a number of odd and poorly, very poorly, thought out belay stations as well as some useless bolts and other just plain whacked stuff. You may find yourself sitting below a pair of bolts just off the perfectly good ledge time and time again, but the climbing is good.

Named for a random rusty piton found on the route. Gets a great view of the Worth the Effort. 

  Approach as for Cross-trainer, leave packs on the slab left of it. Scramble near the base of rock until past the buttress left of Green Thumb. 

  Pitch 1, 5.4, maybe a bit more for the last step up. Length unknown (we always scrambled it). Go past the buttress, then up a thorny gully (the same "thorny gully" as for Ring Leader. Step left onto a ledge and continue up and left on the slab. The easiest, and even somewhat protectable, way is to go up the middle. A large sloping ledge will take you left. Scramble (or climb, it's about 5.6) another 20 feet up to a comfortable the walkable bottom of the gully where Worth the Effort starts. 

  Pitch 2. (100ft) Go up a left-slanting chimney filled here and there with variously sized boulders. Your first pro will be fairly high and there are some loose chocks to watch out for. Stay in contact with the solid slab on the left all the way past the last of the boulders  as the chimney narrows to an off-width. Once past the chocks, make sure to place protection for your second. Take the clean corner to a nook under the overhang. 

  Pitch 3. Make a piton-protected step left onto a ledge and follow it. The ledge will become intermittent, but the hands are good. So is the exposure. Clip and old bolt and start up on smaller holds. Continue left past bird poop (no active nest) into a right-facing corner and stay in it for the rest of the climb. Your destination is the sotol against the sky line. The last third of pitch 3 can be avoided by taking off left, but you will not want to pass it up.  

  In a windy weather you may want to split pitch 3 in two to assure good communication with your second for the traverse section. 

This is a variation finish on the final steep headwall. From a large ledge a pitch beneath the summit, it climbs a corner/face past a piton and a Sotol bush. Traverse out left on the exposed flake/OW (crux) and then go directly to the top. The top of this climb is recognizable by a ;large dead tree. 

  A variation exists that avoids the lay-back traverse, and climbs directly up into a OW-looking corner at supposedly 5.7.

Pitch 1: (5.7, 90ft) Go up the leftmost buttress following a straight and distinct left-facing corner (the leftmost crack system going up the buttress proper). The pitch, while moving past several narrow ledges, will go up at a fairly constant upward angle. You should build your belay at a large horizontal crack when you see the angle ease up significantly above. The ledge here is wider, but you can still see your second down below. 

  Pitch 2: (5.6, 130 ft) Continue up the bulge of the buttress staying basically on the ridge line up to a steep head wall. Make your way around to wall on the right, walk cross a wide, right sloping shelf, and continue up the easy slab on the other side to a ledge below (or even above) a clump of yuccas. (Ending Pitch 2 on the large shelf while inviting is not recommended if you intend to climb Pitch 3, as having the ropes go around the yuccas would cause an unreasonable amount of rope drag for the slabby end of that pitch.) 

  Pitch 3: (5.7, 130 ft) Once up past the yuccas and the few boulders above them take the right-facing corner on your left. (The left facing one on the right goes too, but it's both harder climbing and less protectable one higher up in it.) Step up into the narrowing end of the corner(s) and you should be able to reach up past the vegetation on your right to protect the transition onto the ramp on the right. Go up the ramp for a few feet and then traverse right on the wide ledge into which it turns until above you you rind a short, left-facing corner with a good crack in it. From there go up within the reddish streak. Protection, while sparse, continues to be adequate. Belay at the top of the slab from the boulders there.  

  From the top of Pitch 3 walk over to the rap bolts on top of a large boulder in an alcove about 50 feet to your left.

P1: Slab climb up (5.6) past one bolt and pull up onto a big ledge. Make an anchor here (depending on how you want to start your second pitch make an anchor at the base of the chimney or to the left). 

  P2: There are two options either go right and climb the bolted chimney (5.8+, refer to the chimney pictures) or for an easy variation go left and pull up onto the slab column from its left side (5.6), but I highly recommend doing the chimney. At the top of the chimney it helps to do a 180 and use the crack to pull onto the ledge. Once on the slab column follow 3 bolts and place some trad gear in between. Make a trad anchor in a horizontal crack once you pass the last bolt. 

  P3: trad climb straight up. Once you pull up onto a big ledge go left and find a big crack. Stem up the crack and then hand jam your way to another big ledge (5.7) and make an anchor somewhere on this ledge. 

  P4: climb the dihedral with a sotol at the bottom and you end up at the top next to a big old tree(5.8) 

  (The crack at the top of the climb has two old pitons in it and the last dihedral has one very old piton. This top-out was probably climbed in the 70s or 80s. This last pitch was once called the Ring Route and was rated 5.9)

A previously un-named route that leads up the left-central side of the CheckerBoard wall. This route can be done in 3-4 pitches. It begins on the left side of a huge buttress that roughly splits the cliff into two halves. The left side of this buttress has a huge roof which provides an unmistakable landmark. 

  Scramble up a thorny gully on the left of the buttress to a small grassy ledge beneath a clean slab. Pitch 1: climb the crack system on the left side of the slab. Belay at a ledge beneath a large overlap. Pitch two: surmount the overlap directly at a weakness or traverse right and then up on easier ground to surmount the overlap. Continue up a full rope-length over blocky but easy terrain to a large ledge. Pitch 3: Climb an offwidth directly up to a stance below the final headwall. Puzzle out the move to gain the crack above the headwall, and then continue up wonderful steep crack climbing to ledges near the summit. 

  Most of the climbing on this route is in the 5.7 range. The third pitch offers the best climbing.

A beautiful corner system which ascends the North end of the Checkerboard wall. The climbing is great for the first pitch, not bad the rest of the way. There are some sections of crumbly rock near the top, but for the most part the rock is good, the pro is solid and the moves are exciting.  

  Pitch 1: (70 ft) go up the clean, well defined corner to a ledge. Traversing to the right on the ledge will take you to a rap station if you do not wish to continue. 

  Pitch 2: (100 ft) continue up the corner past a fixed red cord and up a nice crack. Do NOT go to the top of the corner. Look past the arete on your right for a good opportunity to traverse right. Go past the bolt and up a 5.8 slab on small holds to the right of the small triangular roof. Continue up to a dished out spot with a crack on the left. There is usually a rap sling on a chock short distance above this location if you do not wish to continue. 

  Pitch 3: Original version (as per topo) goes straight up from here. It looks scary and I do not know it personally. I was told that it does go to another corner (by a person who traversed into it a bit higher). 

  Pitch 3: Squeeze chimney version. (140 ft) Go up the squeeze chimney above and continue on the left past a bush, then on the right to the top of the wide gully. 

  Pitch 4: (120 ft) Continue up and left, then up and right, over easier but not always well protectable terrain to where you are comfortable. Sling some boulders or a tree for belay. 

  To get to the rap line go up the ridge line and look for a largish green bush close to the left edge.

A mixed, mostly bolted climb offering good face climbing and an interesting overlap to surmount. The angle of the rock is just barely enough to make the tiny holds available work. It's the kind of a place where you take every mono because that's going to be the best you are going to get. It is intimidating, but in the end satisfying.

This is another Un-named route that I have dubbed. It is on several old topos for the Checkerboard as one of the more prominent first pitch variations. What makes it nice is that it is easy to recognize, and offers a fixed anchor midway up tha wall. It also has good rock (except for the start which is flaky), fun moves, and a beautiful and easy off-width portion. The crux move is getting into the offwidth. 

  The climb follows the wide crack and traverses right under a roof or two. After one such traverse, there is a prominent and attractive off-width which cleaves a smooth slab (about 20 ft long). Optionally you can continue traversing right passing some old poot slings, and climb a chimney variation (with a big tree in it). 

OPTIONAL - the full four-pitch "B" variation:

  What makes this route nice is that it is easy to recognize, has good rock (except for the start which is flaky), a beautiful and easy off-width portion, and a short chimney section at the top.    5.8, PG13  

  P1: 30 meters, 5.6. Lead past / around right of three roofs. About when the V crack comes into view, veer right to shallow cracks leading up to hanging belay (ignore old slings).  

  P2: 35 meters, 5.7 PG13. Start up the V crack (crux), continue up and then step right and up into a vegetated area. Cross right onto a slab and then up roughly another 30 feet to a belay ledge with a good horizontal crack immediately above the ledge. This last 30 feet is difficult to protect, perhaps offering just one or two distant protection points.  

  P3: 35 meters, 5.7. This pitch is easier to protect than it appears. Head up the slab the easiest way, eventually passing a bolted belay beneath a thin ~8 foot vertical crack (crux). Continue up and into a huge grassy alcove left of a big green bush.  

  P4: ~55 meters, 5.8. Lead directly up the major crack / chimney system. Exit left at the roof above. Alternately, one can exit left about 20 feet below the roof  ~5.8 either way. Find a broad / tall flake on the left and head up to the summit. Breaking this into two pitches may be wise for communication and/or rope drag.  

  Protection: Standard rack plus double up (about 6 pieces) in the range of 2 to 4 inches. Some hexes in this range are nice. A 4 inch cam works well at the advertised crux in the topo.

Pitch 1: Start from the cozy corner left of the sotol by stepping left onto the slabby ground. Continue up a short, nearly vertical corner and another slabby section to a vegetated ledge. This ledge is shared with Cross-trainer, but go up the crack to the right of the bolts. Belay from the ledge above. (Below the ledge with Cross-trainer bolts.) 

  Pitch 2: Skirt to the right on a sloping slab and continue up a section of slab delineated on both sides by deep vertical cracks. The terrain will gradually steepen. This is the crux of the route. Avoid the roof above by heading left to a sotol and the hollow behind it. If you want to keep a close eye on your second through the crux, you may belay from there. If not, continue straight up passing the Pitch-3 belay of Cross-trainer and staying with the same vertical crack or just to the left of it all the way to the Lunch Ledge. 

  Pitch 3: Go up the obvious opening in the wall above the Lunch Ledge (to the right of Cross-trainer bolts)and follow this crack/chimney for a pitch going on either side or stemming it as convenient. Belay from about the vicinity of a very large block to your right. 

  Pitch 4: Go up and slightly to the right over a wavy ground. Protect under the overhang and climb up the step on your right onto a ledge. Go up the block or if not comfortable with that walk on the ledge to the right past a couple of sotol plants and continue up an easy slab to the boulders above.  

Two pitches of good climbing including an exciting off-width crack that escapes under a roof. The first pitch has a deceptive start: the first crack is 15ft off the ground and it isn't immediately obvious how to gain the crack. Couple this with an awkward fall into a scraggly tree if you don't get gear into the first crack and you might be intimidated. The moves are no harder than 5.9 and by making an awkward reach (easier if you're tall) you can protect the first moves before taking any big risks. Once in the crack cruise up another 70ft to a natural belay beneath a roof. 

  The second pitch tackles the off-width crack exiting the roof to the right. Once around the roof the crack continues for 40 ft gradually narrowing until you reach a small overlap. An exposed move at the overlap gains easier climbing to the top. An easier variation to avoid the 5.10 off-width is to traverse to the left side of the roof and exit up a 5.8 off-width.

Rock is fairly clean, climbing sustained at the grade, particularly on the first pitch, and the route is easy to follow and protectable throughout. The route has certainly been climbed, but I have not been able to find it on any topo or get any information about it.  

  Pitch 1: (5.6, 110 ft) Go up the right half if the distinct buttress on the left/south end of the Checkerboard. Take the slabby surface up to a ledge. Follow the ledge a short distance left to a chimney. The chimney can be climbed on holds, as opposed to chimeneying it, and is protectable. It is blocked at the top, but an exit to the left to a short and comfortable ledge is quite doable. 

  Pitch 2: (5.6, 90 ft) Continue up the same feature, now just a groove in an open slab. It is easy at the beginning, but steepens sharply. This is the crux. The move is protectable using the vertical crack above the bush. (If you are adventurous, you can follow the vertical crack splitting the bulge on the right instead. It protects well and it's clean, but it is 5.7). Continue up and slightly to the right until you reach a really wide, ledge slanting down toward the right. This is the same ledge the first pitch of Lone Piton comes to.

A huge east facing wall, over 500' at its highest point and almost twice as wide. There are many enticing crack systems which give the wall its checkered appearance. Several large boulders litter the valley below and offer many challenges of their own. You can follow one of the listed routes up this immense face, you can design your own variations connecting different crack systems, or simply choose a line and have at it.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Checkerboard Wall