Ascend the clean, excellent crack system behind the pillar for 6 steep aid pitches to the top. There is a small bivy ledge (1 lying down) on top of pitch 4. We only placed 6 pins on this otherwise clean route, of which we highly recommend. Faster parties can do this route in a day.

With a few more ascents, this route will certainly go hammerless.

Gatekeeper Crack

Locksmith Dihedral

The

Locksmith Dihedral

follows the steep, tasty-looking corner up the middle of the buttress.

The first pitch begins in a short chimney filled with a block.  An off-size hand crack leads up to a V slot and to the start of the main corner.

The 2nd pitch was one of the best finger cracks I've ever done. Continue up the dihedral to the top of a prominent tower, which was just 25' from the rim. Lots of loose rock was trundled from this top section as we rappelled off. If you want to go to the top of the formation, climb a 5.6 R pitch. There are no anchors here...you'll need to walk West to the Gatekeeper Crack and rap that route. The first 4 pitches offer the best quality, but going to the top is still well worth it.

There are no summit anchors so it might be best to rap down the

Gatekeeper Crack

.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gatekeeper Wall