Sit start on the large sloper on the right side of a large crack.  Throw to the hold above, and then traverse right to a large sloper rail.  Then go up to a highly textured hold before hitting a series of crimps.  Tops out on the holds at the large ledge.

 NOTE:  This route has been revised with this better start making it worthy of more stars.  Original route started on the large rail directly.  Also, downgraded... 

Merci

Thanksgiving Parade

Forgive and Forget

Between a Flood and a Lockdown

Give Thanks

Murphy's Law

Thankfully

Built for Business

Slippery When Wet

Diversion

Revenge of the Choss Monster

Witless & Fitless

Choss Monster

Intimidation

Improbable Problems

Slanderfest

Casual Business

Closed for Business - closed project

Pipedream

Chaos Theory

Genesis

Fear the Choss

Pound of Flesh - Open project

Mungdungus Corner

Tired of all those brown stains in your drawers from the highballs on the west side of the crag?!  Come try this amazing lowball traverse: a quite long sequence, with very cool moves and everything from crimps to slopers, rails to pockets,  jugs to pinches. Get your heel hook on! Crux comes about midway through. 

 Sadly, a few of the holds in the 2nd half tend to seep, so moisture is likely to be an issue in the wet season. 

start on the large sloper rail. get a high heel and make a dynamic move to some crimps without using the juggy slopers used in merci. then go to a far right crimp. then a slot and the top.

More of a "lying down" start than a sit start... but starts on the small ledge/crack at the bottom of the left side of the large crack.  Work your way up the left side using ridges and bumps and a hidden crimper pocket.  Finish on the large horn before the rock turns to crap.

 While you get a starting foot on the right side of the crack, that's it!  After that, left side only y'all.

A powerful sit start on slopers leads to better holds and fun moves up the arete.  The left side of the crack is off!

 Be aware that the large block capping the topout ledge is awfully hollow, but can easily be avoided.  Probably OK, but I sure wouldn't yard on it...

Start low in a thin, sloping slot with a poor left foot.  Climb up through textured sloping ledges to jugs at the top.  Drop from an incut ledge just below the first bolt.

Start in a large and highly textured slot before moving up and left onto a juggy rail. Traverse left through a series of pockets and finish on the holds at the big ledge.

 It's really a fun little warmup problem, although the first hold can be a bit wet when things are seeping a lot. 

Start on the large cheater block or jump start to a large slot in front of the tree.  Traverse left through the roof and move onto the pockets above.Route names stems from the difficulty and the fact that it was obviously "built".  

Fun route with some cool moves and one hold that's awfully slippery when it's wet!  Starts in a big textured slot and goes up to a big ledge and then to a shelf (same opening as "Thankfully"), and then follows the arete up through pockets and slopers trending right to the lip.  

 Pad 'er up -- it's tall, and there is a big pointy rock in the landing.  Yes, you can hit it...

 "A knock to the head, that's all it takes"

Start low and make a few delicate moves to reach a stance under the 1st bolt.  Begin in earnest with a powerful move to get going and cruise up to the ledge.   Hit the timer and launch into the overhanging face above where it is a race against the pump clock.  While no move is particularly hard, you also don’t get much of a rest until the anchors.This route was named with a double entendre in mind.   If you look closely at the top you will see the water diversion shenanigans to keep the route dry.  It also became a route to keep us entertained with climbing after COVID shut down the world. 

Start on a jug far back in the cave.  Climbing right, through good holds and crimps, then make a big move to a shelf.  Follow the shelf to the right to a pocket.  Drop finish from the deep pocket.Shares a finish with Choss Monster.

Fun continuous climbing on good crimps and pockets.  Figure out your beta or you might find yourself crossed up.  Named for the FA"s COVID era lack of fitness and the their propensity to grid bolt a blank wall. 

Start matched on an odd, hanging feature.  Dyno out to a jug shelf and finish in the deep pocket.  Drop finish.Shares a finish with Revenge of the Choss Monster.

Stand start on one of the good ledges (whatever is dryer) located below the deep pocket.  Make a massive move to a crimp, then move to the lip.  An easy and straightforward top out leaves you with a difficult downclimb, so drop finishing is acceptable.

Start on a crumbly shelf close to the ground.  Climb right on slopers to a good shelf, then top out on the ledge.

One of the steeper routes on the Genesis wall.  Better holds with some big moves and a finish to make you earn the grade. 

This is a route where you actually get to feel like you are really rock climbing.   A retro-bolt and extension of an old unknown sport line.  This one is super enjoyable with a few cruxes to make things interesting.This route was bolted after work one evening in the summer.   However, the developer forgot to bring a change of clothes and bolted wearing their business casual work clothes.   Hence the route "Casual Business" was established.

Alternative finish for Built for Business take a direct line up from the sloping ledge.   

Desperate climbing up the steepest part of Genesis wall.This project was named for the obvious pipe near the top that helps keep the route dry and the difficulty vs fitness quotient that makes sending a "Pipedream"

Stand start on the angled incut rail.  Move up to the sandy "brick", then make big moves to the ledge.  Drop finish from the point.The Brick is made of soft, pebbly sandstone that will likely crumble over time.  Brush carefully (if at all) to avoid wearing down the hold.  You'll never be able to get it fully clean, just accept that it's gonna be sandy.

This route is perfect for the boulderer with 3 distinct sections separated by good rests and progressively harder cruxes that will test your pocket pulling and crimping strength.  If look closely, (not really that closely-it's pretty obvious) you'll see a large dark outline just above the ledge that used to be an enormous flake.   Incredibly the entire flake broke off when the far left side was attempted to be trundled with a large crowbar.  You'll see some of the large pieces of it below that have been repurposed for cheater stones.The route was the first put up on the wall, and thus became the genesis of a new wall of climbing.

Start on a protruding ledge at the back of the cave.  Move straight out to a sloping rail, then climb right, linking into Revenge of the Choss Monster.  Follow the jug rail to a deep pocket, then drop.

Open project. Mid 13?The first few moves go through a couple of feet of sub-par rock that is sandy/crumbly and often wet in the spring, but after that the quality of the rock improves dramatically and stays dry most of the time. This projects name stems from the developer getting his hand caught between the rope and draw while bolting the line.  He could unweight the rope to get his hand out and instead it ripped out a "Pound of flesh" from his finger.  (Ok, maybe a slight exaggeration... but it still hurt like hell!) 

This is a mixed route.  Start 5-10 feet left of the obvious dihedral on a sandy rail (same start as Genesis) and traverse right through the steep bouldery section before mantling only a ledge.  A bolt down low protects this slightly chossy (but very fun!) start.  Then move into the mungy dihedral with a widening hand crack.  Pull the lip and move left on the slab under the giant block and climb (gingerly) the crack to the chains.   DO NOT PLACE GEAR BEHIND THE FLAKE!!!  There is a bolt just before anchor to use instead.  The block at the top is solid and shows no signs of movement, but it might just come off some day, and it ain't gonna be pretty.  

The Genesis Wall offers some of the hardest full-length sport lines at Marne. Fantastic climbing! Test your pocket pulling and crimp power on the face that is surprisingly steep. The bottom 6-10 feet has a problem with seeping that can last through the spring, but above that the routes tend to stay fairly dry year round.One of the best routes at the crag is Casual Business that follows the arrete between PI Wall and Genesis Wall. In the corner on the right side, a widening dihedral crack will put your trad skills to the test. It is a bit spicy!Around the corner to the right are a few fun boulder problems, with the potential for more moderates with a good bit of cleaning, or what may well be some very high quality double digit material. Any takers? Strong men? Lady crushers?Beyond that, there is a cave at the end of the crag, behind the treatment plant.  The cave is often wet, but in the winter it has been know to dry up.  Climb carefully in the cave, many of the holds are fragile.  And watch out for old nails on the wooden landing platform.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in F. Genesis Wall and East Side Boulders