Start on an amazing flake jug, go up easy ledges to crank over the arete onto the slab, then move up to the top. This is a good problem to get on the boulder to get warmed up for the descent jump. You can also descend this route, but it's scarier than the jump off the

Captain's Daughter

corner once you get used to it.

Wicca Wacca

Spanky Pants

Layaway On Hell

Pride Before A Fall

Captain's Daughter

Spanky Pants climbs right up the center of the southwest face. The start generally requires a wide stem that is going to be much harder for short folks. Work up crimps and the big sidepull then to the right a bit on edges. This is an excellent problem, though getting off the ground is out of character for the rest.

Sit start, and go straight up the crack. Be ready to tape some digits. This is a really good problem with some moves that are less-than-typical for the area.

The starting handholds are a little left from the immaculately carved BXO initials and about chest height. Head up on smears and thin and slopey holds to a decent but attention-holding topout.

Start with your hands on edges at about head height with a high smear. Then follow sidepulls to the left with tenuous foot holds to a thin edge and a smooth topout.

Sit start (almost laying down) as far down the arete as you can, basically under

BXO

. Work up the left side of the arete on crimps that often force you to use a more open hand grip than you'd like. Hit the jug on the point, and top out, then turn around and jump off for the descent.

Description

Location

Routes in Afraid Of Hell