Highly technical. Hard moves off the ground to a definite reachy arm span crux. Head up mostly blank face moves using pinches and other bizarre holds.

Glass Slipper

The Warmup Route

Gorilla

Nintendo

Just Left of Paradise

This Side of Paradise

Winter Dance

The Present

Grayling

This notorious line has such perfect stone and continuous movement that it's managed to attain classic status despite its diminutive stature.  Originally prepared by Mike Call (presuming a more manageable 5.13- grade), he graciously gifted the line to legendary crimp master Boone Speed (hence the name). Established in 1995, this line was one of the earlier 5.14s in America, and was named one of the five best miniature sport routes in America in Matt Samet's "Get Shorty" article for Climbing Magazine.  The bouldering difficulty has been estimated to be around V11, and in fact it has been "bouldered" at least twice, though ropes were used to work the line in both cases.

That said, this wall of pockets and tiny edges is more a test of high intensity Power Endurance than pure power, with twelve-or-so continuos moves and barely an opportunity to clip, let alone shake or chalk.  None of the moves are terribly heinous by themselves, but from the ground to the slab every move is hard.  The climbing is characterized by long lock-offs and precision stabs between tiny edges and 2 or 3 finger pockets.  The entire line could be considered one long crux, but there is a more desperate section passing the first bolt and another leading to the third bolt.

Two boulder problems separated by a jug up beautiful stone.

High start hold (use a rock or jump to start) then thin pockets to a pretty blank looking slab to the anchor.

Follow the gray streak through crimps and side pulls.

Powerful and somewhat awkward moves lead to a lay backing crack system and then to the technical slab above.

Big huecos, dodge the roof, finish on the upper slab.

This shares the first two bolts of the 5.12a "Glass Slipper".  Make some hard 5.11, easy 5.12 moves through the first three bolts using good pinches and pockets to a good rest at the right slanting crack/seam feature.  "Glass Slipper" moves left here, but you want to go right, unless you want to climb the 12a, then you'd go left....or just lower down and watch your girlfriend play a weird modified version of Mancala with her friend while the wind blows really hard.  Anyway, go back up and from the third bolt head up and right through the crux.  The fourth clip kind of sucks and the holds through the crux suck even more, but it has a really cool sequence if you do it like I did, but you will most likely do it differently because you're taller/shorter/stronger, etc. Assuming you get to this point, gain the slab, do some compression type moves, and join the 5.11b "Just Left of Paradise" for the last few bolts.  Cool rock, nice moves, 3.2% beer.

Head up curving corner line. One definite crux on the 2nd bolt then eases up quick.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gorilla Cliffs