First two pitches are among the best I've ever done, and the third pitch is pretty good too!   Easy 4th class 30ft up slabs to base of short dihedral. Clip a bolt and pendulum left (or stretch left for free-11b height dependent variation) then up hand and finger crack to anchor (90ft including slabs) P2: this pitch has everything! technical finger crux off the belay then thru a pod to a difficult obtuse chimney to a roof with good jams! (80ft) P3; up corner/chimney past a few bulges and big jams then stem over out over space and follow OW with face edges to an inspiring vista from an alcove.(95ft)

Barefoot Fred

Jane Doe

Frenching Shiela

Dirty McNasty's

Obvious long offwidth on the left side of the wall. Start below and left of the offwidth crack at 15 foot chimney split on both sides. Travel over broken and chossy stuff up and traversing right around a corner. This first pitch is a traversing, chossy mess that is like 5.7. It's just to access the sweet crack above. Once at the crack you'll start having fun immediately, on mostly good rock. You will end up at a roomy alcove below top of wall. You may ascent cracks to top then scramble back to alcove through steep gulley.  The offwidth section has good and interesting rock, worth the crappy first pitch.The last pitch is good rock with stemming and jugs everywhere. Rap the slung boulder then two more raps. straight down.

Chalky and soft on first few easy moves then getting to much better rock. Includes a little ofwidth but mostly hands and stemming. Very fun, good pro.

Obvious spectacular offwidth on right side of JD wall. P1: Climb moderate but fun low angle crack to bolted belay. P2 and P3 make your way up wonderful chicken wings and knee jams for a little over 200 feet to top anchor. Rap back down route

Start slightly right from sandy bottom then traverse left on rail to start of crack. Clip first bolt then grit your teeth and move through the technical crux, very thin past 2nd bolt then into crack with nice gear. Crack is hands and fingers, sometimes shallow, sometimes flaring. Some really hard crack toward top then over mini roof to great edges and 2 bolt anchor.

IT's not dirty or nasty, it's really good. Only 45 feet long but it's a really sweet hand crack with superb features, great hand and foot jams the whole way to anchor.

A 300-350 foot sandstone wall with some nice cracks

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Protection

Routes in John Doe Wall