Approach:

Take care if opting for the direct approach from the saddle of Toole Tower, loose and exposed 5th class.  Gear can be found for belay.

P1

. Start in the obvious, large, right facing corner, continue up and exit the corner to a stance above and right. 80ft 5.10+. Move belay up to the corner below a hand crack. 50ft 4th class

, loose.

P2

Climb the clean corner, past a large loose block, ending at the base of a low angle hand crack 90ft. 5.10a.

P3

Climb the lower angle hand crack and through a short chimney ("the pantry") to the summit of the tower with a bolted anchor/rappel on the west side of the formation.  5.7 90ft. One 80 ft rappel takes you to the ground on the west side of the tower. Descend sand and loose rock North, and eventually East, back to the base of Mrs. Buttersworth.  Eat your flapjacks.  Feed your soul.

Flapjack Crack AKA "Soul Food"

Early Bird Special

I Aint Jo Momma

Tooele Tower

This route is on the same formation as Flapjack Crack (5.10+). It climbs the side facing Springdale (North Face). Pitch 1 / 5.12- Face climb past two bolts to the splitter. Climb fingers,to a long stretch of tight hands that takes you to the top of P1 Anchor. 35m. Rock quality is largely good, though it deteriorates toward the end of the pitch. P2 /5.8 standard Desert tower choss, climb right a few feet and then up around the summit block to the anchor. It's very loose and the protection isn't stellar. This gains the summit anchor and the same 80 foot descent as Flapjack Crack. Pitch 1 can be top roped with a 70m rope. The rock is soft out at the eagle crags, avoid climbing the route if the rock is wet.

The route was climbed in 5 short pitches. It starts right of the chimney in a left-facing corner.  P2 requires trickery to gain the crack system. P3 was a gear anchor. Rope drag was problematic on P4. Descend 'Tooele Tower' route on SW face.

Drive back and forth between Mosquito Cove and Zion enough and you can't help but wonder about that toothy ridge above Rockville.

The most exotic-looking tooth, far left on the skyline from the road, has a short and sweet route on the backside path of least resistance. A perfect way to try out Zion sandstone without shuttles, tourists, and big wall logistics. We got beta from a drawn topo at the backcountry ranger desk in Zion and from m.project.

The rock formation you climb seems to be called either

Aunt Jemima

or

Mrs. Butterworth's

. The route name is one of those, or possibly

Tooele's Tower

as noted in the Zion ranger beta file.

It takes an hour and a half to get to the base. In mid May it was in the shade until 11, full sun a couple hours later. It's a little sandy and clearly doesn't get traveled all that often, but the rap stations are well established (bolts and trees).

The ranger beta called it 9+, but we thought the moves off the second belay were a little stiffer. However, you have the belay bolts at your chest so you could aid it if it felt dicey.

Fun route. Great summit with great views; a gentle adventure climb. Please try to minimize desert impact by staying as best you can on what faint trails there are to the base of the route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Eagle Crag