Snake Juice

Science Diet

Nemesis

Sunking

Prickler

Sega

A fun route up overhanging jugs once you get past the A0 winch start to bypass the blank start.

Climb up using jugs to reach the overhang. Traverse right and stem out using shallow pockets to reach the next bolt. From here, work your way higher into the roof to reach the 3rd bolt in the roof, utilizing 2 cool ribbons in the roof. Continue to traverse right under the roof until you reach a large ribbon sidepull. From here, follow the flake system up and right until you reach a shallow overhang. From here, you can either continue out right and up a thin face to chains or you can detour on to the finish of Bitten, 5.12a by pulling the overhang and going straight up. This route is a bear to clean, it's easiest to clean on TR.

This fun line features flawless pocketed flowstone down low and a committing "roof" pull up high.  The first crux is pulling off the ground with scant feet to get established on the wall.  The next comes turning the arete/roof after a good shake.  This is one of the steeper .12s in the Utah Hills with correspondingly larger holds.

The Goss guidebook warns that this line is sharp, but if you're solid at the grade, use your feet, and don't thrash about you will enjoy some excellent tufa flowstone and fun movement.  This climbs like a slab with great friction for the feet, several good pockets and some prickly edges that you never need to bear down on.  The biggest threat is grating your knuckles while clipping around a few protruding features.

This route is not sharp like its neighbor, but the rock is shattered and somewhat spooky to climb on.  The climbing is awkward, with off-balance liebacks and insecure pinching.  Still, the line has big holds and southern exposure, but there are many 5.11's in the area with better rock and movement.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Snakepit