A fun thin crack/mantle problem.  The original 5.7 line started well to the left, and then traversed right to the upper part of the route.  The direct start is a better way to do the climb - the protection is very good for the hard moves.

Howard's Horror, Direct

Dyno in the Dark

Break Dancing

Damper

Twisted Crystals

Ballet

Fear of Flying

Pinched Rib

West Face Overhang

Dirty Dancing

This climb is on the steep wall between Ballet and Howard's Horror. Start as for Howard's Horror (Regular Route, which is the left start; 5.7) then climb straight up past a horizontal crack to a second horizontal crack. Load it up with pro, then continue up the right-slanting dike over a bulge (crux), then up the steep face past 2 bolts to a crack system that leads to the top.

Scramble up a chimney on the NE corner of the rock and belay (1-2") in an alcove just above the Space Station.  Make an exposed reach into a clean crack.  Jam and layback this, and finish in an easy slot.  Rap bolts on top.

A very nice steep face with balancy moves.

The obvious wide crack left of Pinched Rib is a good exercise in fist jamming. Despite appearances it's better than it looks and the only thing lacking is length. Descend off to the climber's right, the same descent as for Pinched Rib.

Climbs a short dike on the upper block of the west face of chimney Rock.

Start about ten feet right of  "West Face Overhang". Climb past some horizontals, then a crack to the top.

Not much to say about this one.  A pretty fun - albeit short - route.  Follow the quartz dike past 2 bolts (crux at second bolt).  Belay in crack (hand size cams) and descend west down 4th class chimney.

Descend by heading right and down a slabby but improbable looking  crack.

This climb is located at the left end of the west face of Chimney Rock. Start just right of a large boulder and head up into a short chimney. Then up and right, up and right and up.

This is a good climb for a new leader to learn about slings, rope drag, and setting a belay. Perhaps break the climb into 2 pitches to avoid serious rope drag, and if doing so belay just before or after the traverse under the roof.

There are bolts on top to rap the backside and into the "chimney". You can scramble down, or scramble up to the top of The Flue, and rap again.

Begin at the base of Damper and climb up and left to a right-facing flake. A bolt protects the crux face moves above the flake.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chimney Rock - West Face