Use hand, first, and OW moves.  It has 3 distinct cruxes and very interesting movement.

Death of Panduva

Hanuman

Panduva

Genesha

Virgin Sacrifice

North Face

Budda's Belly

What a cool chimney! Press, push, jam, and scum your way up this. If you only climb "the best", you'll hate this route...if you're into adventure, questionable placements, and unique climbing, this route is for you!

Hands, smears, and body scumming will come into play as you climb up this. The protection is there though the rock is flaky in parts. It is also easy to set up a toprope if you don't want to lead this.

There is good gear the whole way even though there is some loose/bad rock. The crux is getting into the final crack.

After eyeing this line for almost a year, it's finally done! It has good protection with your typical section of Monument mud stone. Work your way up on a combination of finger, hand, and fist jams.  We aided the section of poor rock and later TR'd it at 5.11(one move). The rest of the route climbs around 5.10 and would be a 4 star route without the bad section.

I have not climbed this one, but there is a register on the top of "Devil's Gate Tower" that documents this ascent. The route climbs a broken but solid looking, vertical vein that trends right into a great looking dihedral to top out. This is the first ascent of this tower as well.

The first pitch is the best climbing and the crux - 5.10 OW to a good ledge and belay. P2 goes up through the well-protected corner/roof, 5.10- .Continue up a loose and blocky chimney to a really cool belay deeper in the chimney. P3 climbs a short wall (5.8) then continues into the saddle.

Hike off climber's left.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Devil's Gate Tower