SANDBAGGED: Definition: "deliberately underperform in a race or competition to gain an unfair advantage." 

  Amazing boulder problem up the hill from "Beeched Whale," this little gem is overhung at about 50 degrees and though short, it packs a major punch...  

  Feels way harder than V3/4 in our opinion.   

  Start matched on a decent side-pull, make a dynamic move to a weathered sloper out left, and choose from a shallow flake under-cling or shallow crimp rail to gain the awesome lip.  

Big moves and relatively hard, this problem may be one of the best on the island (for the grade)! Very "heady," but well worth the effort! The feet are terrible down low, so use caution, (pads and spotters), as the landing is awful as well. FULL VALUE BOULDER PROBLEM!

Purity

The flake will break

Parking Lot Boulder

Hyperbole

Unknown

Silence is the Question

Beeched Whale

Kara

Cowboy Junkies

Innocence Lost

Parking Lot Left Arete

Purity (Right Variation)

Unnamed

Kara Right Exit

Beeched Whale, (Left Arete).

Start at the right side of the Purity boulder and traverse left to finish at the same spot as Purity for a much harder, 'sandbagged' variation.

Sit start from the flake and crimp rail, feet out left. Big move right to a good triangular divot, then walk your feet right along the low crimp rail until you can lock off right and move your left hand from the flake to the upper crimp rail. Crux is probably finding feet from which to do the first move. The first move itself might be long for the small.

 Nice movement. Walking right into the heel is especially satisfying.

 The flake will indeed break, but so will everything.

The right side of the main boulder in the parking lot, follow the obvious line of holds to a great top-out.

3 moves, but man-o-man are those moves technical.  

  On the left side of the parking lot problem is "Hyperbole." It chipped in early 2015, making the grade much harder than originally thought.  

  Stand start on extremely thin, sharp, crimper edges, with glassy feet. Grab an almost non-existent left hand 3-finger crimp, also heinously sharp, get high feet and throw for the decent top out.  

  Originally thought of as V4, the starting holds and intermediate left hand crimp, chipped.

Just a guess on grade, I’m bad with that stuff. Sit start left hand on side pull crimp rail right hand low in crack on other side of the arete. Use some neat footwork to stab to crack pod on right side of arete then up to jugs and top out.

The beautiful arete above the trail. Two starts exist, the first being down in the cave to the left of the arete and the other being directly on the arete from a sit. Whichever start you decide, climb up the arete making use of some edges and crimps to an undercling and finally the lip. The mantle isn’t that hard but a bit spooky from the drop off behind the landing. This is an excellent problem with good rock and quality movement. 

This is a great problem first established by local hard-man, Jonathan Hogue, in 2016. Though this boulder problem is slightly "contrived," it's definitely worth the effort. Fun and stout! 

  Sit start on the right-most side of the boulder on a match-able incut crimp rail. Work your way left, climbing under the fallen tree and finishing in the middle of the block. Big moves for the finish required, and "beating the forearm pump," is the name of the game with "Beeched Whale," as it's quite long (Around 12-16 moves!). 

Stand start directly under the finish and it goes at V1+, worth warming up on!*

Start matched on an obvious jug under the roof. Make technical moves up the center of the boulder, V4. The alternate start on the left side and finishing in the same spot is V5.

Tall slab arete further in the boulder field past "Silence is the Questions". FA was done during winter with full snow coverage. The landing is not ideal. This thing is tall.

Start standing with the left hand on the arete and the right hand on whatever you can use. A few moves lead to an easy top out. Short, but a nice easier option. 

Start standing with your left hand on a sidepull at around 6 feet and your right hand on the arete at the same level. Pull on, bump the right hand higher on the arete and then deadpoint for the lip. A fun line on friendly holds. Better than 'Hyperbole' in my opinion...

Start on Kara but traverse right across middle of face to top-out on arete.

The leftmost side of 'Beeched Whale,' follow the jugs all the way up. Fun and easy warm up for anyone! Like many problems of Acadia, it will most likely need to be cleaned.

Sit Start low on left side of boulder, climb up and right to top-out

This large Boulder field is located atop Beech Mountain. The Area stretches from the obvious large block in the parking lot, to the boulders down the trial to the south for at least a half-mile.  This area hosts some of Acadia’s  highest quality problems. Two of the most notable problems in this area were put up by local climber Jesse Cameron and are called “Cowboy Junkies” (V9) and “Silence is the Question”(V8). There are also a number very high quality easy and moderate problems in this area, including classics like “Purity” V3, “Innocence Lost” V4 PG-13 and “Hyperbole” V6.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Beech Cliff Bouldering