Start to the right of “Shin’s Nightmare” and step right of the broken column.  Follow the crack to the large hollow flake at the rest ledge.  Move up the right around the large overhanging “tooth” and into the wide crack (crux).  Protect crux with a #3 cam and reach up for the bomber hold far into the crack.  Pull the cruxy move through the wide crack and finish with pocket face hold to the bolted anchor, 2 bolts.

 Great for into to trad and TR climbing.

Ajax

Boner Direct

Schoolhouse

Shin's Nightmare

Cam's Jams

Iron Man

Airball

Draino

The Crimp

Harry's Follies

Airball Direct

Iron Horse

Ajax Variation

Boner

Huggy Bear

Middle School

Left Crimp

Follows “Ajax” to the large hollow flake but moves left around the crux crack onto the slab.  Slab leads left sharing holds with “Shin’s Nightmare” and finished at the same 2 bolt anchor.

 Great for intro to trad and TR climbing.

Climb up under the flare and stem, reaching into the flare and gaining a high foot.  Mildly overhanging crux leads to the final face moves below the anchors shared with “Draino”, 2 face bolts.

 (Rope drag from a TR setup is unavoidable.)

Sits to the right of “Boner” directly right of a small tree growing from behind a slab.  Great beginners route for TR or to practice trad placement on lead.  Mild moves full of cracks, pockets, and under clings with  mild exposure.  Shares a 2 bolt anchor with “Middle School”.

Obvious overhanging broken column to the left of Ajax.  Protects with a #0.75 cam in the crack right of the broken column.  Pull the thin shallow crack using the arete to the left and move past the crux overhang to the face left of the broken column.  Protect face with small cams or nuts moving right up the slab and finish at a bolted anchor shared with “Ajax”, 2 bolts right of the final arete move.

Possibly the best climb on the wall. Starts on short broken columns leading to the obvious top flaring off-width crack.  Big hand/foot jams up the crack lead to a stem-able overhanging crux.  Pull through the crux and gain a ledge top the column to the left of the crack.  From here use multiple face hold and the arete to climb the face to the right of the crack.  Finishes with a bolted anchor, 2 bolts. (Use a 240cm sling to extend a TR over the ledge reducing rope drag.)

Directly to the right of “Huggy Bears” start by climbing the short fractured column to the obvious finger crack.  Pull the crack through the overhang and find the thin and shallow upper crack to the left of “Cam’s Jams”.  Single face bolt to the left protects the face. Shares anchors with “Huggy Bears” 2 bolts. (Use a 240cm sling to extend anchor over the ledge to reduce rope drag for TR.  Use a quickdraw on the face bolt and a #1 cam in the overhang as a directional to keep TR climber from swinging around “Huggy Bears” on a fall.)

This route begins up a ladder like set of holds which transition into a finger crack until you find yourself wedged in a bulgy flared off-width. Solid jams can be found deep in the off-width portion which is definately the crux (unless you are the rare individual who thrives on these awkward crack types). Once you make it through the bulge its easy street to the anchors.

 Used to be a 5.9 route here before a column fell exposing the fun, seemingly loose block ladder.

Start below the flaring crack right of “Ajax”. Climb up to the “razor rock”(left).  This is the crux.  A variation of solutions pull through the overhanging cracks and finish on the slab up top.  Shares face bolted anchors with “Boner Direct”, 2 bolts.

 (Rope drag from a TR setup is unavoidable.)

Follow the bolt line up some thin face moves into finger cracks and some tricky stemming left of the broken column.  Pull the roof using crimps and negotiate better feet after the overhang.  Climb the remaining technical slab across the diagonal crack to the anchors shared with “Left Crimp”, 2 bolts.

Right of Cam’s Jams, make your way to the chute.  Lie back at the start of the chute and traverse right around the point to the top finishing at a bolted anchor shared with “Shin’s Nightmare” and “Ajax” 2 bolts.

Starts on the second short column to the left of “Huggy Bears”.  From the top of the second column step left onto the third (tallest) column directly under the cave.  From here traverse left to the triangle right (top of the UNKNOWN crack).  Follow the left frack up the face finishing with anchors for “The Crimp”, 2 bolts.

Starts on the same wide column as “Huggy Bears”.  Clip the 4th bolt and move left towards the next bolt, onto the overhung face using a deep undercling. From here the bolts disappear as do the feet. Fight to a good but sloping rail and smear some undercut feet to lock off and reach for the higher slot. Creative feet and technical strength might get you to the top of the cliff. This route was originally graded 5.11b and trad, as a variation of the finish to the 5.10a trad route “Ironman”. With the addition of bolts to the column between the two, this finish can either be climbed as a bolted variation to “Ironman” (trad), or “Huggy Bears” (sport).  Since the original grade was given, the upper portion of the face seems to have exfoliated a layer, taking a few of the holds with it and possibly rendering a harder grade.

Climb the edges to the right of “Boner Direct” past the thin horizontal frack and up the slab to the flare in the gully.  Pull the moves through the flare and gain crack to the right, left of the green/yellow mossy face.  Climb the crack to the top.  (Stem using the slab and you’re fired!)  Finish with bolted anchors, 2 face bolts.

 Slightly hard to protect leading up to the flare.

Huggy Bears climbs the large protruding/fractured column to the left of the Iron Man crack.  Originally a top rope variation to the classic trad line Iron Man, sometime in 2021 this route was retro bolted and is now a safe, modern sport lead. This single pitch starts off with some stemming and hugging of the column to a stance at the first bolt before an awkward hug/smear to a small ledge where the second bolt is within reach.  Some more stemming/hugging and a reachy move lead into a mantle atop the fractured section of the column.  From here the third bolt is reachable and the fun begins.  Big moves and delicate feet allow for a spooky/insecure move over a bulge and onto the fourth bolt and the slab above.  A tricky finger crack and some edges lead past a fifth bolt to another mantle onto the shelf where the two bolt anchor can be seen.  (Note: Anchors cannot be seen from the slab but will be easily located once pulling over the shelf.)Originally given a 5.8 grade on TR this climb has seen only a few lead ascents since its bolting and has a current 5.10 consensus grade. (June 2021)(Use a 240cm sling to extend anchor over the ledge and reduce rope drag for TR)

Easier looking bolted route just left of the “Elephant Wall”.  Follows 5th class moves up a string of safely spaced bolts before topping the column and running out a scramble to the left or right.  Shares bolted anchor with “Schoolhouse” (to the left), or “Elephant Direct” (to the right). Fun exposure off the right side of the arete.  Top 15 feet are run out but barely 5th class, that being said a fall would be a swinger!  Either bolted anchor has 2 bolts.  TR from the right bolts will not go, set up a TR from the left side anchors shared with “Schoolhouse”. (TR and lowering off anchors experiences high rope drag.)

Climb the far left bolted column on balancy ledges past the second bolt.  Get creative from here as the great hold diminish and the roof is unreachable.  Once the "blank" section has been negotiated, powerful moves climb out from under the roof and onto the slab above. Finish on moderate featured slab at the anchors shared with "The Crimp"   

The "1st Wall" is the array of columns from the far left routes, to the large fallen columns meeting the "Elephant Wall". This Wall hosts 18 climbs, and is the only area currently accessible for top rope setup. Most of the climbs on this wall are trad routes but there are a few sport routes, and several sets of accessible bolted top anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 1st Wall