WOW - A little surprised this one hasn't been added yet. Nice climbing with a bit of everything and long pitches! Pitches 2 & 3 are fantastic requiring some granite FUNK.

Pitch 1 5.10d 9 bolts

- From the natural break head up and left. Follow broken blocks and cracks toward the bolted wide crack and small ledge. Climb the wide crack to a no hands traverse (literally) left and back right to a ledge.

Pitch 2 5.11b 10 bolts 60 meters

- Traverse right to the arete and follow discontinuous cracks and face. Follow thin cracks right to finish this pitch.

Pitch 3 5.

11d 14 bolts 35 meters

- Start right of the anchor. Climb the face and then to the groove corner system. Continue up the corner system to a stance on a small tower.

Pitch 4 5.11

c 5 bolts 35 meters

- Climb the steep patina bulge up into a groove head up moderate ground to the anchor.

Five 35 meter raps to get back down. Just look around, you'll see the other anchors as you climb.

Stone's Throw

Sole Neuropathy

Hail to Hanuman

Van Candy

Dr. Feelgood

Hellhound On My Trail

[Redacted]

Envy

Old and the Bold

Cerberus

Start by clipping 2 bolts up to a small ledge.  Place some pro (small nut & small cams) and climb opposing seams and cracks up to a 3rd bolt.  More thin seams/cracks lead up to a 1 foot section of  hand crack (#2 camalot) and a bomber #1 camalot in a section of crack to the left.  Cruise up to another bolt and more thin cracks (small cams).  At the 5th bolt, stop worrying about gear and clip bolts past the crux and a right leaning groove up to anchors under the bushes.

I saw this crack and bolted face rapping from stone's throw and just had to check it out because it looked so cool. Note I only climbed the first two pitches.

Pitch 1: 4 bolts/20 meter/5.9: there are bolts to get up to the anchor and some crack climbing, but we opted to just scramble the path or least resistance to reach the anchor, otherwise clip a bolt, climb the crack, and then clip three more bolts to the anchors.

Pitch 2: 7 bolts/35 meters/5.12b: Start in a right facing corner and continue up through the crack, there are multiple ways to skin this pony. The crack takes mostly finger sized gear and eats nuts. I think the biggest piece I placed was a .75". Once the crack ends at a nice stance, traverse right and clip bolts up the left leaning seam on absolute bullet rock to the anchors.

Pitches 3&4 I was told a finger sized piece or two is nice to have, but they are mostly bolted pitches, so you can leave the rack at the top of P2 anchors. I didn't climb these pitches but the grades are .11c and .11d according to the guidbook.

Continuously interesting moves lead up the slab to steeper climbing in a brown corner.

Scramble up the easy ramp (5.5, optional gear) for 30 feet to get to the first bolt. Tricky moves past the third bolt lead to an easy middle section and a final crux getting to the anchor.

This nice route is sort of in the middle of the wall.

P1: Start up some easy blocks. Climb past 7 bolts and then traverse left across a gully to reach a bolted anchor below an overhang. This is mostly an approach pitch to get to the good climbing.

P2: Lieback and jam around the overhang, finishing out a bulge on some questionable, but big, holds. Then follow the line of bolts up the nicely featured face to the anchors. A little loose in some spots, but overall a great pitch.

Make 2 raps with one 70m rope.

Start up the right leaning, slippery corner past 3 bolts, with cruxy, tenuous moves past the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A welcome rest is reached at the 4th bolt.

Easier climbing leads up past bolts 5 and 6 to a challenging bulge past bolts 7 and 8. The move past the 8th bolt may be significantly harder if you are under 5'10".

One more tricky section past the last bolt leads to glory jugs and the anchor.

Very good, slick, compact rock.  An interesting face that in the correct light appears an almost brilliant green when viewed from below.

P1: Easy climbing leads past a few bolts to a short overhanging section.  Once on the slab a few reachy cruxes lead up and finally right to the belay. Good pitch in and of itself.

P2: Sparse holds on slick rock.  Crux starts at the second bolt.  Gain and follow the easier thin crack/seam that splits the upper part of the slab.   Aesthetic open/clean pitch up the middle of the slab.

Another route where using an 80m greatly simplifies everything.  In particular, a 70m does not reach back to the belay on P2, whereas an 80m does. There is an intermediate halfway rapp anchor off to the left part way down P2 for those using  a single 70m (need to swing - it's intentionally away from the line.)

P1 (10c, 18 bolts)

Starting to the right of the pillar climb up a seam passing a rap station just left of the route ~half way up the pitch (you'll use it on the descent).  Note: This pitch has the crappiest rock on the route.  If you can get through it you'll be rewarded with some fun pitches on better rock up top.  The route is worth more stars as this pitch cleans up.

P2 (10a, 3 bolts, gear to #4 Camalot)

Head up a short but awkward grainy crack past 2 bolts to a black chimney.  Follow easier ground up the right-most crack system on better rock.

P3 (8, 10 bolts, gear to #2 Camalot)

Clip a bolt and step right around the arete onto a varnished face.  Head up the face to the bolted anchor (hanging belay) or build a more cushy on a shrubby ledge at the base of the 10b corner.

P4 (10b, gear to #4 Camalot)

Grunt up the left-facing corner. Belay from either the top of the corner or at the base of the next left-facing corner.

P5 (10b, 2 bolts, gear to #4)

Head up the left-facing corner clipping a bolt under the roof as you traverse to the anchor.

From the higher Hellhound P2 belay step left, go over a little bulge, pass a few bolts, then join Hellhound for 2 bolts.  Turn the overlap instead of following Hellhound left.  Follow the seam that initially goes straight up, then angles right. Good rock in a nice location.

Using an 80m simplifies everything.  It's a full 35m from the mussies back to the ledge, careful if using a 70m.  With an 80m it's also possible to do a single rapp from the ledge to the ground by swinging right and scrambling down a few moves.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bighorn Wall