Pre-clip the second bolt if possible. Make a funky mantle onto a undercut sloping ledge. A low crux leads to a large pocket left of the first bolt. A second crux with small feet and nub crimps lead to a ledge. Cruise jug face sequences to the top. Used to be a mixed route.

Overpowered by Funk

Mandolin Gypsy

Chicken House

Past the Jugs

[Redacted]

Albino Rhino

Facing Up

Eminence Front

Hitchhiker

Zion Ray

Quantum Leap

Sweet Charlie

Young Buzz

Rocket Pocket

An imposing face that is much easier than would first appear. The crux is found in the first two bolts, pulling through to the arete. A balancey technical series of moves leads to a good rest and a cam slot.  Above here, what looks to be a blank face reveals large in-cut holds and plenty of protection opportunities.

Start up the flake on the left side of the black streak to the ledge. Then follow the obvious holds between the dark and light rock to the anchors shared with 'Past the Jugs' to the right.

Dark face up to a ledge. Then a small thin flake just left of the dihedral. The crux is a technical sequence between the flake and dihedral.

Traverse right from bottom ledge, commit through techs sequence and fire up moderate terrain.

Climb the dihedral handcrack over a few small bulge-like sections.  This is one of the most popular lead routes at Sam's.

Pumpy start and more moderate finish.  Follow the left crack up to the roof for better hands and pro.

Follow up easy flake system to short face to small roof with block. Crank through crux and climb crimps to anchors.

A vicious boulder problem crux leads to fun, reachy and pumpy finish. The rock is solid and a bright, beautiful orange.

If you are lucky enough to own the original Sams Throne guidebook, maybe you have seen or top-roped the line "Quantum Leap".  I never did, because I thought it looked contrived and more effort than it was worth to set up the TR.     In the fall of 07, under the encouragement of others, I lead this route and redirected the line to add more climbing, and bolted anchors for those still wanting to TR this dynamic and wild ride. It is the "Love Slave" of Sams- very similar to the route of that name at HCR, down river- maybe a little more sustained.

Thin seam with the crux off the ground to easy climbing.

Start left of crack on crimps, lunge to pocket. Place pro in horizontals...slight run to start route. Crux the crimp start and second crux is at lone bolt. Very fun face route with positve crimps and edges.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Side & Albino Rhino Wall