This classic aid route follows thin face cracks up a beautiful section of the lower Twin Brother formation. There are no ledges above pitch 2. Please be careful with the rock (when cleaning pins, please favor upward blows).

P1 - Start in a left facing corner that turns into a chimney (5.10).

P2 - Easy scrambling leads to the base of a smooth wall. 3 bolts can be seen above.

P3 - Ascend a blank area, mostly drilled holes & bolts to a hanging belay.

P4-9 - Follow a mostly thin crack to the top. The last pitch has some soft rock. This route could go clean. The visitors center has a topo.

Descend by scrambling south to a pine tree. Make 2 190' rappels to the drainage between Twin Brother and East Temple. Descend this (2 raps) to the ground.

Ancient Gallery

West Face

Lost in Transit

High Definition

The route climbs the right side of Right Twin Brother...right of Ancient Gallery. P1 climb up to the bushy ledge via a splitter C1/ 5.7 set a belay then do a scramble P2 up to the base of a blank wall with a chocolate corner above. P3 "Tha Peace Test" climb up through thin flakes and features to a rivet/ hole ladder to the Organic Belay at the bnase of a left facing chocolate arch A3+ don't f*ck up. P$ climb the sweet chocolate corner to a pendulum left into a left facing crack system A2+. P5 climb up to a horizontal crack and head right until you can tesion down right onto the bolted "Birds Nest". P6 climb the sweet left leaning "Paintbrush" splitter above to a hanging belay A1. P6 use some trickery to hook up and right through "interesting" rock A3.

From the southern point of the western flank, climb up and left on red slabs on the south side of the west flank. At the transition from red to white rock, traverse a ledge north/left and continue up a shallow weakness on the central-north side of the west face. Eventually, the slabs steepen. Aim for a gully splitting the summit plateau. The gully has a few sandy frictiony spots (5.0) prior to topping out on the ridge (most may want to rap this on the way down). Follow sand and scrub ledges east until a weakness in the summit plateau. Scramble up the summit hoodoo.

P1 - Starts Just left of left facing corner where Ancient Gallery starts. The pitch eventually moves into that same chimney.

P2,3 -  Difficult free climbing gains the prominent right facing corner above.

P4 - Climb the excellent corner above to an OK bivy ledge(5.9).

P5-8 - Difficult nailing ascends the cracks & corners above to the top. See topo at visitors center.

The first ascent party (Steve) took a long zipper fall on pitch 7.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Twin Brothers