Thin, technical and dynamic direct wall into the crux of Old School 2000. The 2nd pitch to Sole Super Power and Zion Stormtrooper

Generation Why

Lefty-Leany

Box Car Arete

Big Five Nine Open Book

Exit Tolle

Trash Culture

Coombs Crossover

Sip On This

Zion Stormtrooper

Box Car Boulder

Naranja Aplastada

Orange Member

Triple Roofs

Sole Super Power

Weight Weighed -  ( 2nd pitch variation to Ganger-Munger )

Hobo Rat Race

Going Ghandi

Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route)

Chocolate Corner

No Logo

Hargis-Dyer Arête

Monkey Flower

Waste Products

Blimpie

RSB; West sector, the right route on the great flat wall.

A 2 bolt, 5.10-  warm up, to ledge. Work, steep, shallow corner up into press up, crank, hard to find grips, up and slighlty right, toward thinner section, escape with toe stab, off gastons. Bust up toward easier looking, but difficult last move on angled ledges. Anchor 35 m.

A pumpy little left-leaning trad climb. Start at the base of a blocky dihedral to gain the left-leaning finger crack. Move through the secure laybacking to a bouldery crux. Watch the rope drag in the roof for the second. As of now this climb is a walk-off with no bolts.

This is a two pitch route, but the first pitch is a worthy journey by itself.

Tenuous steep slab and arete climbing is the name of the game here.  The first pitch is VERY long (40m), and you'll be welcoming the anchors when you see them. This is a sport route, but there are plenty of opportunities for big swinging falls and some of the clips are tricky - so don't jump on this if it is way above your grade.  Many of the moves are exposed, and you need to work both sides of the arete to find the path of least resistance and many of the sequences are not obvious.  Sometimes it feels like the world disappears beneath your feet - very exciting!

Towards the top of the first pitch you'll encounter two bolts right on the arete - stop here if you intend to do the "right" version of the 2nd pitch.  This isn't a great stance unfortunately.  Continue up to the big ledge with multiple sets of bolted anchors if you intend to climb the other version of the 2nd pitch (which is the rightmost bolted line off this ledge).

I've only climbed the "right" version of the 2nd pitch.  From the chain anchors on the arete, move up and right through very steep and challenging climbing.  Fortunately it is well bolted (though the first bolt off the anchor is a ways). I found this climbing very difficult and hard to read - more 11- than 10+ in my book.  The steep climbing takes you back onto the arete, and more tenuous arete work.  A weird move from left to right across the arete finishes the difficult climbing.  You'll end on a big ledge.

If you've left your stuff at the top, you can do a dirty 5.7 pitch (bring nuts and a #1 Camalot) to gain a scramble off.

Otherwise, rappel from the upper big ledge to the lower ledge with one rope (a 60m will make it).  Then rappel from the lower ledge with either two ropes, or you can stop at an intermediate stance about 40 feet off the ground.  The anchors are hidden in the big corner.

Major feature in RSB West sector. The first pitch is better than the second. New bolts and bolt anchor added to the 1st pitch has made the route more accessible. Some good jamming of various sizes for 40 m to a big ledge, followed by a fresher 2nd Pitch. A decent way to “summit”

2nd pitch alternative just right is:

Old School 2000: 5.11c/d *** this is an excellent sport route

Start P3 anchors Tolle Route, also the base of Blimpie. Climb up and left on slab, passing two bolts to gain a left-facing corner. Climb the high-quality jam crack to a ledge. Descend 3 raps w/ 70M rope down Boxcar Arete descent. It may be possible to rap back to Tolle Route, but FA party hasn't done it before... A fine addition to Toll Route or Blimpie from the same belay anchors. Enjoy!

Very steep stem corner and escape into Coombs Crossover, then crux of "Coombs Crossover”

Step up to steep corner. Stem, undercling stay left, clip bolts, Face crux a match left, and scary thrutch right, because of the fixed pin, hit jugs on Uber-steep, classic if the gear was upgraded!

This is an excellent route put up by the late great Doug Coombs.  Fun 5.10 climbing through the first 5 bolts leads into the "Crossover" crux.  The crux begins at the roof, then moves into a shallow left facing dihedral before traversing left onto the arete.  The route finishes with some fun face climbing.

Start in the West Gulley 25 right of the ramp to Naranja Aplastada. Climb up moderate terrain to gain a white quartz layback crack where the difficulty begins. Move up through the bulge and follow the crack up and left to the belay ledge for Naranja Aplastada. Two raps from the Naranja Aplastada anchors will get you to the ground.

North facing Boulder below Box Car Arête at the water hole.

Left to right SDS traverse is classic, V5 stamina with an early crux to pump crux at the end.

White stripe SDS V7 a short, hard classic.

Good warms up on right. The corner  V3

A brilliant orange headwall is the highlight of this route. The headwall is guarded by a steep roof.

Pitch 1 -> Climb the obvious ramp and arete to gain a roof with a steep boulder problem. Step right to a two bolt chain anchor. (5.10+)

Pitch 2 -> Climb the brilliant orange headwall.  Mantle onto a ledge with two bolt ring anchors. (5.11)

Rising, right, out of a dead end gully, with difficulty, to arete' with overhang, tricky read...

Two interesting pitches on variable rock, generally good but with a few shabby sections on Pitch 1. Don't be deterred, it's a very worthy route and careful climbing will avoid trouble with the suspicious stuff.

Stemming through the cruxy start of the second pitch will make it a little less strenuous. The next two roofs ease off, but it's not a gimme.

RSB; West sector, left route on great flat wall. Either belay on ground or anchor 11m up in 5.9 corner. Step right, climb 5.11 cruxes up to horizontal, then harder moves up and slighlty right, follow seam with crimps to shake 5.12b, wicked series of moves up, a little left, including a keeper, finger lock, pocket, then thin to thinnest ending with an all points dyno or rose move to jugs and anchor 35+m

Great two-pitch trad climb. No bolts.  Fun movement on clean rock.  70M rope recommended for descent

Pitch 1 is an old 5.10+ route is listed in Renny's book on page 67. Alternatively, in the Wes Gooch guidebook, it's called Ganger-Munger 5.10D. This variation splits off right after the P1 anchor, tackling a steep roof, then an upper corner that is clean, albeit short, splitter crack climbing.

Start ->  25 feet left of Tolle Route

( Pitch 1 ) -> Climb Ganger-Munger P1 5.10. Climb the obvious weakness around the left side of a bulge to gain the two parallel cracks. Climb the leftmost crack until you get into the white rock below the roof. Build a gear anchor below the roof.

( Pitch 2 ) -> Climb up to the roof above and eventually fade right through a blocky bulge via a series of stems and laybacks. Gain a 35 foot left facing clean corner with splitter hands to a ledge. Look for bolts with rings on the ledge.

Descent -> Walk across the ledge (West or lookers left) to gain bolted anchors on the top of Boxcar Arete.  3 raps from here gets you to the ground w 70M

Start Zion Stormtrooper thug into Box Car Arete'

Going Ghandi is a bolted variation of the 2nd pitch of

Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route)

.  Climb the first pitch of

Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route)

and then take the bolted line out right.  There is a 5.12 variation of this route that cuts right at the 3rd bolt... so if you want to climb Going Ghandi, take the left path of the right bolt line (that's a mouthful!).

The crux is a crimpy and balancy affair over the first roof. It took me multiple tries to figure out this move.  The middle section is fun - though one of the clips is a little scary for those of us that aren't tall.  There is a weird, difficult to read finishing move, so keep it together until the end.

You can continue up

Blimpie

(5.10b) for a great finishing pitch!

An enjoyable and non-threatening jaunt up the western portion of Rock Springs Buttress.  The climbing is relatively straightforward, belays fixed, and the protection excellent - making this a fine introductory route on Rock Springs Buttress.  As usual for this crag, there is still some loose rock around so use caution.

There are 5 bolted chain anchors on the route, so it is possible to do this climb in 5 pitches if desired, but it is comfortably done in 3 pitches if you skip the 2nd and 4th set of anchors (60m rope).   The plethora of anchors makes rapping this route a breeze.

The pitches are described as I did them (skipping the 2nd and 4th set of anchors)

P1 - 50 feet, 5.6 - climb up broken rock and the occasional crack to fixed anchors on a nice ledge.  These anchors are difficult to see from below, but they are directly below a huge, attractive corner system.

P2 - 125 feet, 5.7 - step right and into a long corner system.  Continue past the first set of anchors until the crack disappears.  Step right and into a hand crack that takes you to the next set of anchors on a sloping ledge.

P3 - 125 feet - 5.8 - step right and into a long corner system (detect a theme!).  A cruxy area is encounter at a wide section.  Pass the next set of chains and continue through two cruxy laybacking sections up and right to the finishing chains.  You can do

Blimpie

as a harder variation to this final pitch.  If you have a 70m rope, you can also rap down and TR

Blimpie

if you're not feeling like leading it.

Either rappel the route or scramble up and left back to the approach road.

NOTE: a 70m rope is required to rappel the route using the belays as described above.  If you have any doubt, just use all the anchors!

The short, nice looking chocolate colored corner was made on lead with motor drill and pins and has a cryptic sequence for a short ways. Worth an onsight trad burn.

Right wall of "Guide's Route'.

Climb 5.5 1st bit of "Guide's Route' to 2 bolt anchor, 1.5 cam. Then sport arete' variation to Going Ghandi

A second pitch, usually. The arête above the Monkey Flower route is a step out right and crank and stand with ambience!

Warning: a 70m rope required to rap or toprope off the anchors!!

This is a popular route, both because of its grade and the fact that it is the first moderate route reached on the approach trail. The climbing is a times awkward, and the bolts somewhat out-of-reach, but the position and length of the pitch make the climb worthwhile in the end.  The rock is still a little loose, so take care and wear a helmet.

Beginning at the bottom of a huge left facing corner, this route climbs up and left and heads directly up the huge headwall above the roof.  The climbing isn't super difficult, but the unpredictable nature of the holds, awkward moves, and length of the route slowly build to a nice pump.

Steep W facing, overhanging wall with seam on left side of West Sector. Start; step up to an easy corner. Crank once in corner to horizontal jugs. Shake, prepare, then with difficulty, undercling to seam, pinky lock, pinky lock, poor feet to pinch, gastons and finally finger buckets! Chains.

This is a spectacular variation finish to

Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route)

.  Exposed, technical liebacking and stemming up a crack for 50 feet gains a beautiful, bolt protected face.  The face, while imposing, has plenty of features to keep you moving steadily upwards... A long, memorable pitch.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (a) West Sector