This climb deserves some recognition! Brilliant, tricky, and sustained climbing through the crux. Off the ground, 5.10-ish climbing leads to about the 1/3 height of the groove and the crux. Hard liebacking, stemming, jams, use of the main and two subsidiary cracks and rounded sides, sloping texture, knee bars, and other trickery will see you through. Once you reach the small pin scars a body length from the sloping ledge, it eases way off. The squeeze chimney above is trivial, perhaps 5.7.

This line is a bit of a funnel and the upper pin scars collect grit, you may want to brush them out beforehand. The rock overall is very good on this one, but it has yet to see much attention and some ball bearings on texture and disintegrating potato chip edges for feet remain...a few more ascents would clean it up nicely.

Dick Cilley called this his favorite route at Joshua Tree, and I would put this in the top 5 of hard Josh routes I've been on, despite how short it is. Where a lot of harder Josh routes involve crimping on tiny sharp and often sloping holds, reachy moves, or single shutdown moves, this route feels much different with relatively large features where body tension and creativity mean  more than being able to lockdown razor blades.

The Persian Room

I'm Not Afraid Anymore

Perfidious

Surrealistic Pillar

This route can be found in the Vogel Guide rated 5.6 A4, the modern grade is about C2+. It is located on the east face of the Blob up on a platform to the right of Surrealistic Pillar and I'm not afarid any More (behind the campsite with the huge boulder that contains a head and rivet ladder). To gain the platform climb a tree at the base or a crack in a corner to the right of the tree. The route is a thin overhanging crack that is characterized by four fat bolts that were added for free attempts(clipping the bolts lowers the rating and reduces groundfall potenital). Climb a 5.6 ramp to the base of the crack, start with micro nuts and aliens, clipping 4 fixed heads along the way. Continue up the crack till it ends and make 2 hook moves to gain the two bolt anchor. To descend rap the route.

This nebulous route starts to the left of the

Perfidious

seam and climbs past a variety of bolts (the old guide says three; I remember at least five). Loose rock at the start gives way to strange, overhanging face climbing to a difficult slabby corner section. A loose flake hangs down atop this section like a huge dagger: It must be climbed but if possible, gear placement should be avoided until the next bolt can be reached (runout). The flake might prompt an R/X rating because it's pretty much a requirement to jam or lieback past it. The noise of bats from underneath the flake was somewhat disconcerting as well. After this section, slab climbing leads past the Perfidious anchor towards the large overhang, under which bats and owls nest. Urine and feces are in abundance under the roof. This section is slightly beguiling: either climb straight over the guano-stained overhang (as indicated in the guide) or, as I did, traverse left under the roof, being careful not to slip on the decades of effluvium caked on the rock, until it's possible to join Disco Sucks (.10c). I traversed left until rope drag rendered further movement impossible and belayed in an uncomfortable stance in a corner. Finding a way through the roof to the bolted anchor above might be a better option, and splitting the climb into two pitches would help with the problem of rope drag. Loose rock and excrement make this climb an exciting if not dangerous venture, but the climbing through the first part is still quirky and enjoyable.

A far better way to end this climb is at the Perfidious anchor, which, after the free ascent, is now two modern bolts with chains. If you want a somewhat unpleasant adventure, continue onwards.

A super route that's not often done. Go straight up to finish. Bring the rack - all of it. The route is around the corner and right from "Mamma Woolsey" up the striking black pillar. DO IT!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Blob - East Face