A bad ass route a-typical of your classic Red River style. Bust out a reachy boulder down low and then hang on through continuous low to mid 5.12 until the chains. The crux will definitely feel harder if you are short.

Take That Katie Brown

All In

Laura

So Low

Purdy Mouth

Swahili Slang

Trust in Jesus

Breathe Right

KAPOW!

Three Wasted Bolts

Injured Reserve

Bouldery toss on crimps at first bolt (technical crux) leads to easier but continuously engaging climbing through the flakes above.  The direct start can be skirted if desired by taking the left hand path up the arete. An aesthetic line that deserves more attention.

A pretty, vertical line up a vibrant orange streak.  The crux is between the 1st and 3rd bolt.  Most of the climbing stays a few feet right of the bolts.

Start up a juggy rail.  Traverse right along decent edges, then head straight up on thin crimps for a few bolts until you reach much better holds at mid-height.  Enjoyable layback moves and a few finger jams lead to an easy steep finish.

The top tends to seep when it rains.

Another addition to the warm-up routes for the Motherlode.  Climb plates and long moves to the chains.

At a crag where steep is king, this quality vertical route is severely ignored.  With cool, grooved rock, and thin, intricate moves this forgotten line will have you feeling humble no matter what you just cruised in the cave.

Thirty feet of easy patina climbing on mediocre rock set you up in a huge, deteriorating hueco below the very sustained headwall.  Make a hard move out of the hueco to some small edges(crux) and then move left to better holds.  Crimp past another hard section and keep it together until you hit some big holds.  Rest up, then make a weird move to reach more good holds.  Subtle slopers lead up and right to better holds and the chains.  No need to use the crack below the chains(unless you want to).

Besides a little lichen and the tree just left of the route, this line is very nice.  Definitely deserves more traffic.  Rated 12b in the guide, but felt like solid 12c at least.  Much harder than Swahili Slang.

Stays dry after heavy rain.

Swahili Slang is a bit of an anomaly at The Motherlode, with generally vertical climbing on generally "holdless" stone.  This climbs more like a desert face climb, with snaking movement between large features.  Some will love the technical, balancy nature of the climbing; others will wonder what happened to all those notorious Red River Gorge jugs.  This is a great line for wiley old veterans with good technique, as there are few powerful moves and forearm endurance is irrelevant.

Step off a small rock at the base to a large horizontal hueco.  Make a reachy move out right, then one hard crank off a tiny, positive crimp to reach the patina above.  Work up to the obvious leaning arete, and figure out how best to utilize it.  Awkward moves lead up this feature to a difficult section working up to a narrow ledge of iron extrusions.  Work up and left to the high dihedral and an awkward rest.  One last tricky little section leads to the anchor.

A straight-forward and sportily bolted warm-up for the steeper climbs deeper in the Motherlode. Share an opening move or two with Injured Reserve to the left, follow the chalk trail to the right, and trust the sharp flakes straight up the mild overhang to get the blood pumping in the morning.

Starts with easy movement that gets more difficult as the climb progresses - another good warmup for the rest of the lode.

Justifiable not as popular as the other "warm ups" on this wall, Breathe Right is generall slopey, sequential, and not quite as fun as the lines to the right.

Scramble up on the ledge and make easy moves to gain the wall.  Mellow moves on good plates leads to a decptive crux on round holds.  Eventually a few iron xenoliths are reached offering some recovery, before one more hard section gains enormous jugs and the anchor.

Scramble up onto a broken ledge system to reach the base of this climb. Climb on edges through a long reach near the start of the route to reach comfortable holds for a few bolts. Take on long moves through the finish overhang.

Start up the flaky corner making use of the crack and natural features for protection. When the corner slabs out, continue straight up the slightly overhung face above.

Located in the middle of the Warm Up wall, Injured Reserve along with its neighbors to the left and right provide an excellent warm up for the mere mortals working 12s at the Lode. Scramble up a large boulder/ ledge to begin. Stick clipping the first bolt is a grand idea, for blowing the open moves would be very bad news.

Start by cranking a big move off of a good crimp with questionable feet. Pump up jugs for a few more bolts where you will be met with the crux: Either make a body tensiony big move off a slopey ledge to a good pocket or finesse your way up a slopey pinch. This crux alone made the route feel a little stiffer than the grade would suggest- Consensus is starting to trend towards 5.11b. After surmounting the crux, cruise jugs to the anchors, keeping it together for a great clipping jug.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (2) Warm-Up Wall