There are a ton of variations to this "route" because this is the name of the whole slab and it is not broken up in to different lines... All variations are R rated on the lead but there are convenient TR anchors at the top... 

  My favorite way up the slabs is to start near the middle and climb easy chicken heads trending right tward a left leaning crack above... The chicken heads get smaller as you go... Gain the base of the crack and layback and jam your way to the top... 

  If you like real friction climbing start in the middle and head straight up to the top... There are fewer holds this way and you can test your rubber... 

  No matter what variation you are on if you spend some time here you will end up rescuing some unprepared novice or local punk who was suckerd in by the super easy climbing down low... 

  Map: mountainproject.com/v/new_h…

Tippy Toe

Gripped

Gravy Train

A great solo/scramble on the left side of the slabs... This would be a much better option for the local kids to solo in there sneakers as it is easy for most anyone... Also a good route to bring super beginners to get them used to the systems and to gain confidence... 

  Easy to find and easy to climb... Locate the crack on the left side of the slab... Jam the crack or just stuff your feet in and walk up it... 

  Great rock... 

  Map: mountainproject.com/v/new_h…

This line climbs the arete that marks the right edge of the Tipppy Toe slab... A fun route but the top is a little contrived... Of course you can finish however you wish and link it up to your favorite finish in the area... 

  Start at the right side of the slab on the arete passing flakes to a ledge about 40 feet up... Move right on the ledge then climb to the top with hands on the arete and feet on the face (i like to do variations of this part, choose yor own adventure)...

A great place to learn the ropes, so to speak....   The left end slabs are 80-100ft long with two eye-bolt anchors at the top, one on the right and one in the middle.... If you have the gear, there are options for building anchors from trees as well.... 

  It seems every day someone gets stuck on this inviting rock face in their sneakers and they either pull it together and climb up or down or they become a statistic by hurting themselves of getting rescued by climbers or the fire department...when I was 13, I had an epic experience in the middle of the slab with my dad where we climbed up lured in by the big comfortable chicken head features on the lower part of the cliff.... These features very slowly fade to smooth slab by the top and the cliff gets steeper.... This leaves the inexperienced soloist realizing how hard it is to downclimb a slab and how high they really are.... I was one of the ones who pulled it together and topped out...as did my heartrate.... 

  The climbing on the slab is moderate and a great place for beginners to get the basics down.... It is leadable, but it can be quite bold in parts as slabs don't afford much pro....

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Tippy Toe Slabs (far left end)