This is a fun route!  It is too bad that the approach takes an hour.  It probably does not get climbed very often.  The crux seems like it is between the first two bolts, but it is about the same in difficulty most of the way.  If you like slabs, you will like this route.

Sills' Route

Peak Bagger's Route

Too High to Die

Die Too High

This is the easiest way to the

Sills' Route

anchor.  It is a fairly fun route and is protectable along its length.  You move to the left about 3/4s of the way up on a good, protectable ledge.  The crack is smaller than a hand crack for most of its length.

The crux is the start gaining the low angle crack to the summit.  A 30m rope is recommended for the route.

This is a great crack climb which you will enjoy if you like cracks.  The first pitch is a hand crack, and the second pitch is a bigger crack which can be liebacked in some places.  You should save your #4 Camalot for about 3/4s of the way up the second pitch.  You can get to the top of the rock from the end of the second pitch, but it is not recommended.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in South Noddle Head (Fourth Noddle Head)