Want to really blur the line between bouldering and free soloing? Look no further than this route on the south face of this behemoth. Once bolted (you can still see some of the holes), this is now a toprope/solo. The crux is probably in the first 15 feet, pulling between decent edges, but the scare factor only increases the higher you go as the rock quality decreases. Crank past the edges, climb up and slightly left past a hueco via somewhat crumbly rock, mantle onto the slab and forge ahead solidly into the 'no fall' zone. From here the route/problem is definitely not entirely over and some of the rock is highly suspect. Trend a bit left and continue up the slab. Tread lightly: the questionable rock makes this a pretty serious undertaking!

Transporter Room

Footprints

Rastaman Vibration

Evilution to the Lip

Lucid Dreaming

Advanced Rockcraft Arete

The Process

La Belette

Ambrosia

Evilution

Cave Problem

Described by Dan Beal as, "The last king line in the buttermilks", The Process, FA'd by Daniel Woods, is the proudest and most obvious line on the classic Grandpa Peabody boulder in Bishop, CA. Starting as the rightmost line, it was the last portion of the overhanging face to be added to the list of hard climbs on the same wall: Lucid Dreaming, V15, and Evilution, V11.

The climb starts as a V12 crimp ladder, an over-the-head jump move, two V14 moves, and a V10 top out.

Stand start at the lowest good holds. Climb up and left onto some sharp crimps / holds. Dyno to the big crumbling jug out left. Make a few more hard and reachy moves to get established onto the slab. Keep climbing up the slab to the top.

Once you get established on the slab, the difficulty IMO is about 5.9ish. Most of the hands and feet are good, except for about 10-15 feet below the lip after a flake jug. The hands are slopey crimps and you have to stand up on less than ideal feet reaching for not so great hands. Fun.

Oh, don't fall.

Start with left hand on a high pinch and right hand on a lower small crimp and make a big hard move with the right hand to a high edge then top out with care...

Stand start on the pile of rocks nd reach up high to a good left hand incut crimp and a flat and slopey right hand crimp. Pull onto the wall and fire off a big intro move. This is the crux move, so latch it good and pt on the game face. Move in lefty before going up right hand agin. Once here, continue moving up and leftwards on increasing sized holds. Once on the good sidepull flake continue up and traverse the lip rightwards utilizing a good right hand undercling. Grab a sloper jug then jump down onto a double stack of pads.

Sit-start to Rastaman Vibration. Start on a decent edge, move up to a shark tooth undercling/sidepull and a poor edge then make a big deadpoint to the start pinch on rastaman vibration and finish as for that problem. Extremely difficult

For many, this is the perfect highball. Located on the iconic Grandpa Peabody Boulder, the physical crux is, for most, pulling onto Grandpa from a smaller boulder. The mental crux for many is the last pull over on to the top. After getting established on Grandpa, traverse right and then shoot up via immaculate crimps. Incredible!

Tendons of steel and lots of core strength are needed for this weasel! Sit start with the right hand on a good edge and the left hand just under it. Pull on and move out to a left hand crimp rail. From here get a hand toe match and toe down like your life depends on it. Bring the right hand in then figure out a sequence that works best for you and traverse leftwards on improving holds before rounding the arete and dropping off from a jug. The problem eases up after the first 3 moves or so.

The stupid high gently overhanging face with the beautiful black streak on the Grandpa. Yeah so it's a boulder problem! V11 to the halfway point, then it supposedly eases up to V7 and then 5.12a

Enjoy!

This landmark problem was first climbed by Jason Kehl, and stands as a North American classic. At 55 feet, it is closer to a route than a boulder problem, and represents a new breed of boulder problems pushing the envelope of highball bouldering. The initial face was first ascended by Chris Sharma around the same time that he did 'The Mandala'. Originally, Chris simply dropped off from the lip holds at 20+ feet (most people down climb a bit before dropping). The initial face features steep patina crimps on immaculate rock streaked with yellow lichen. The drop-off problem is a classic in its own right and checks in at V9/10.

Jason's visionary line pulls the thin lip moves above the drop-off problem and continues onto an insecure 5.11 slab. The upper crux is purportedly V9. Since Jason's ascent, a variation has been established that takes a rightward exit that has easier moves, but on less than solid rock.

Sit start at the large hold way down in the cave.  Make fun interesting moves out of the cave, until a large hold is reached.    Make a long reach up to a dish, match on this and grasp the bigger holds, then jump off.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Grandpa Peabody Boulder