Good alternative for initial pitches of Cosmic Wall.

Start on the climber's right hand side of The Ogre, approximately at the level of P1 of Cosmic. There is a flat spot at the start, in the middle of uphill slope along the base of the Ogre.

P1: 5.7, ~ 100ft, many ways to go, mainly face climbing with a few small cracks and horns for pro. belay at a small ledge with a very small pine tree.

P2: 5.9, ~150ft, this is the fun pitch. From belay start up right trending flake system. Protects well with cams AND nuts. Belay on a larger ledge with a larger pine tree. Or continue and link with the following pitch.

P3: 5.0, ~ 60 ft, many ways to go, easy climbing, belay on a large ledge with a large pine tree which is also a possible belay for Cosmic Wall.

P4 and P5 are 5.6 and are shared with Cosmic Wall.

Golden Opportunity

solar wind

Cosmic Wall

Excellent route up the East face of Mt. Hubris. The climbing stays pretty easy but is run out.

Pitch 1: 190' 5.5Start at a low point along the East face at a large pine tree below a huge right facing corner. Start out on easy ground up the corner, pass a tree continuue up the face above and belay on a good ledge with a tree.

Pitch 2: 110' 5.6Move up and right following broken rock in a dyke system. When the face nears vertical step right to a bolt anchor on a comfortable ledge.

Pitch 3: 150' 5.6 Make a tricky move just above the anchor then run it out across slabs and grooves on the face above until you reach a bolt anchor at small stance.

Pitch 4: 125' 5.4 Continue straight up the low angled face to a large ledge system below to right leaning ramp systems belay from gear.

Pitch 5: 170' 5.6Climb up the right hand ramp system to a notch and an uncomfortable belay from a small tree and an old bolt.(The left hand ramp system also looks very climable and leads to basically the same spot)

Pitch 6: 185' 5.6Traverse 25' left and climb a low angled groove with a piton. If this otion does not look fun to you go straight up the sharp arete to the summit, there is very little pro on this long pitch but the exposure off both sides of the arete is amazing!

Descent: 2 raps down NE face then follow gully down and right.

Rappel 1: 100' from bolt anchor on the summit

Rappel 2: 85' from a tree

Not a 3star route as in the guide.

Takes the nose and R eye of the Ogre. 1st pitch is choss gully solo to tree.

2nd pitch is the business and good fun. Easy slab past old bolt to cluster of poorish cams under 1st roof, this is probably the mental crux. Then slab to second roof and red camelot to hardish move past a bolt (replaced) to pull onto dyke proper. One more old bolt to 2bolt belay (replaced)..  needs a 60m rope.

3rd pitch starts off good on the dyke, Then steps round R into a dirty gully to loose all exposure. Not particularly inspiring and feels pointlessly dangerous, with many good stances to drill, but no bolts and dirty/sandy. Not like a Tuolume R which is way awesome! a 5.10 leader might whitey :)

Only 3 bits of gear that will hold. Purple Camelot off the belay, RP3 at the Crux step right and a green alien.

4th pitch shite. Step L on chossy wall/chimney. Apparently a bolt somewhere??

Best to bail after pitch 2 IMO! Bolts are home made and rubbish! I replaced pitch 2+3 anchors with fixe ss 10mm and crux bolt pitch2.

UK E3+ 5c for those interested.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Ogre aka Mt. Hubris